The Beauty of Sashiko-Japanese Embroidery

INTRODUCTION

Sashiko is one such technique that has been popular in Japan and probably is the most enduring technique in the art of embroidery. The term ‘sashiko’ literally means ‘little stabs’ and this is the direction sashiko, the type of reinforcement stitching that originated in Japan in the Edo period (1615-1868). Traditionally, it was used for mending and reinforcing fabrics and, eventually, people of the farm and fisher kind became attracted to it because of its great resilience referring to the capability to resist the deterioration by the appearance of various types of weather conditions. Hence, there was growth of sashiko from being mere stitchery practice to becoming an art of stitching with histories and emotions. Originally used as a technique to repair fabrics such as kimono, this art form originated in Japan during its Edo period and experienced rapid development due to ornamentation and usefulness.

Sashiko is a form of embroidery designed by Japanese artisans in the 17th century that is making waves around the globe due to its simplicity and the fact that it is recommended for meditation. Necessity brought this embroidery craftsmanship to a craft that enjoys both form and function in sashiko.

This is a traditional Japanese art where lines that reinforce the weave of the fabric are sewn on most times in white thread over black cloth. It is also an ideal type because the designs derived from it can range from utilitarian to ornate, noted for clean lines, geometric forms, and elegant minimalism.

Apart from being a modern embroidery technique, a beautiful and intricate art form, sashiko has an important history in Japan. Although sashiko had its origins in farmers and fishermen who used it to repair holes in their garments, it was soon adopted as the art of mending. The repetitive sewing patterns not only contributed to strengthening fabric material, but also was considered a significant contribution to the great variety of practices that individualized everyday objects.

Eventually, after a while, people began to appreciate what sashiko was in fact; an art form on its own. Craftsmen take it to the next level by creating highly elaborate patterns that transform simple objects into treasures to be handed down through generations. Today, sashiko remains an art admired by artists and enthusiasts internationally owing to its aesthetic richness, uncontested meditative appeal, and historical significance.

HISTORY & ORIGINS OF SASHIKO

The making of sashiko embroidery started during the Edo era (1603 – 1868) in Japan where sashiko was commonly used as a means of mending worn fabrics. At this time, the majority of people were living in poverty and the dwellers of homes have had challenges of how best to preserve the number of uses of the fabrics in use.

To which Sashiko proposed a genuine yet basic ideology which works. People could reinforce clothing, blankets, and other everyday articles by sewing rows of skip-stitches, which makes fabric sturdier and warmer. Apart from the practical use of stitching the runner, it also contributed to the aesthetic appeal of the craft by adding a unique pattern of running stitches in the piece.

Sashiko means “ little stabs” in Japanese language due to a series of small punctures made in fabric to be stitched. These stitches were primarily taken with a good quality, white cotton thread, which emerged in stark contrast against the indigo background of fabrics that were popular at the time. As to the stencils, they are not only ornaments; people thought that they could help to protect themselves from bad energies and attract good ones.

As sashiko was disseminated, it was noticed that modifications appeared in various areas of Japan reflecting the specificity of local territories. For example, farmers and fishermen of the northern Tōhoku area have created graceful geometric shapes and patterns that could effectively be used in stitching the heavy-duty and tough fabric needed in their line of work. However, sashiko designs seen in the Kantō region, which is near Tokyo, appear to be more subtle and elaborate due to the exposure of the citizens living in the big city.

Despite these regional differences, sashiko shared a common purpose across Japan: to produce durable, useful fabrics that would be financially sustainable and would last longer. Stitching was not only good for practical use, but the motion of stitching also offered a therapeutic effect, helping people and providing a feeling of togetherness for those who practiced it.

Sashiko also developed as a form of declaration of ethnic and personal taste and propriety. Some designs are representative of the certain regions, or occupations, or social status, and the tapes and textiles were often carrying some sort of symbolism. For example shippo tsunagi is a traditional design of the jewel linked which was considered appropriate as it was used by fishermen, and was believed to offer protection at sea as well as good luck.

Though sashiko slowly became less of a necessity in practical life with the progression of the twentieth century in Japan, the future of the craft seemed uncertain. Nonetheless, sashiko seems to have faded out of use with the onset of the century, but towards the latter part of the century when there was a boom of Japanese culture especially arts and crafts, sashiko was again found popular. Today, however, it is more of a custom and thus living through examples of the modern and ancient times where such items are valued and protected.

The Sashiko Stitching Technique

”Sashiko embroidery is a simple craft that is often characterized by the kind of stitching used to give it a unique look. Thus, while the outward appearance of some stitches and patterns may differ, the fundamentals of sashiko embroidery are the same regardless of the regional techniques and variations added by practitioners.

Sashiko stitch remains basic and primary, which is the running stitch that is also known as ‘little stab’ or ‘straight stitch. This stitch involves the creation of several small straight stitches that are equally placed and created by passing the needle through the material many times then pulling the material through.

Sashiko commenced with graphics trying the fabric with a grid or a pattern by using a specialized sashiko needle and thread or the use of water soluble pen. This guide assists the stitcher in keeping the rows straight, and parallel – a characteristic intrinsic to traditional sashiko embroidery.

Stitching then comes next where the fabric is first punctured by the needle and then the thread is passed through the puncture hole round and round in a seamless motion. The stitches used to make them are of equal length and tension which require a neatness which makes their appearance to look almost like hastily produced by a machine.

During the stitching, the fabric is rotated and rewound in such a way that the direction of the stitches remains in proper alignment. This process needs to be very precise and controlled as any inconsistency in the orientation of the miniature beams creates an interruption in the formation of concentric circles.

Besides the running stitches, other techniques that may be employed by the sashiko embroiderers include cross stitch or may refer to the reinforced stitch. These are simply modifications on the running stitch which creates a layered look, dimension and attractive design on the final product.

Another essential concern about sashiko is the selection of the thread and the fabric will also dictate the look of the sashiko. Originally, sashiko was made using heavy white cotton thread that matched the durability of the fabric used and the contrasting color with blue materials that were mostly used. Although the recent sashiko artists have used an extensive variety of thread colors and fabrics, which has given an opportunity to discover many new designs.

In general, the principles remain quite similar and the focus is, to some extent, in the aesthetics of the final product but more in the process of creating it with the help of sashiko embroidery stitches. The up and down movement of the needle and the even stitching lines, impose a commanding task of workmanship to the stitcher that transcends into an almost clinical nature of the activity. Sustainable and steady, this sense of mindfulness and attention to detail is seen barely in sashiko tradition; it is one of the reasons that craft still pulls the makers and enthusiastic personalities worldwide.

Sashiko Patterns and Designs

It may be difficult to define what precisely distinguishes sashiko embroidery from other related forms of embroidery, but one of the most exciting features of sashiko embroidery has always been the variety of motifs and patterns that have developed over time. That being said, let me explain how Japanese sashiko stitch artists have added motifs and compositions to the simple stitch technique they use, which is in harmony with the awesome cultural background of Japan.

Just as today, many of the early to mid 1900’s sashiko patterns are illustrative of the natural world with everything from waves and bamboo to cherry blossoms and more. These patterns not only give the embroidered textiles an aesthetically pleasing aesthetic, but they may also refer to something symbolic or have connections with a certain region, job, or ethnic group.

For instance, the shippo-tsunagi (linked jewel) design where a circle, a diamond, or a hexagonal figure is repeated is a fishermen’s motif because the link is thought to bring good luck and avert evil at sea. Likewise, the ‘hishi’, or diamond shape was linked to the samurai, because it approximated the appearance of their helmets and was emblematic of solidity and sturdiness.

Other sashiko patterns draw inspiration from everyday objects and activities, such as the “moyō” (design) pattern, which features abstract, grid-based compositions reminiscent of traditional Japanese architectural details. The “kasuri” (ikat) pattern, on the other hand, mimics the distinctive blurred, woven effect of the traditional Japanese textile technique of the same name.

In addition to these well-established motifs, contemporary sashiko artists have also embraced more abstract and experimental designs, pushing the boundaries of the craft and exploring new creative possibilities. These modern interpretations often incorporate bold color palettes, asymmetrical compositions, and unconventional stitching techniques, while still maintaining the core aesthetic and meditative qualities of traditional sashiko embroidery.

Regardless of the specific pattern or design, the composition of sashiko embroidery is typically characterized by a sense of order and balance. The parallel lines and geometric shapes create a harmonious, almost hypnotic visual rhythm, drawing the viewer in and inviting them to appreciate the subtle beauty and meticulous craftsmanship of each piece.

It may be difficult to define what precisely distinguishes sashiko embroidery from other related forms of embroidery, but one of the most exciting features of sashiko embroidery has always been the variety of motifs and patterns that have developed over time. That being said, let me explain how Japanese sashiko stitch artists have added motifs and compositions to the simple stitch technique they use, which is in harmony with the awesome cultural background of Japan.

Just as today, many of the early to mid 1900’s sashiko patterns are illustrative of the natural world with everything from waves and bamboo to cherry blossoms and more. These patterns not only give the embroidered textiles an aesthetically pleasing aesthetic, but they may also refer to something symbolic or have connections with a certain region, job, or ethnic group.

For instance, the shippo-tsunagi (linked jewel) design where a circle, a diamond, or a hexagonal figure is repeated is a fishermen’s motif because the link is thought to bring good luck and avert evil at sea. Likewise, the ‘hishi’, or diamond shape was linked to the samurai, because it approximated the appearance of their helmets and was emblematic of solidity and sturdiness.

SASHIKO PROJECTS

Over the past several decades, sashiko has reinvented from being just a traditional Japanese stitching method for clothes to being a popular art in Japan and across the  world. Contemporary artists and craftsmen contemporary carbonate has done a great job of integrating this art form into clothing apparels, fashion accessories, jewelleries, kitchen utensils, furnishing and decorative items, footwear, toys, sports wear, cosmetics etc. The artistic and neat appearance of sashiko, as a function allowing creating clear geometric patterns, was interesting to people searching for handmade things.

1. Sashiko Embroidered Pillows/Cushions: Sashiko patterns are most commonly applied on throw pillows, cushions, and any other home accessory products that people interact with daily. The elegance of shapes is simple yet beautiful which brings an appearance of Japanese art in every place it is established.
2. Sashiko Tote Bags/Pouches: Sashiko stitching is a traditional method of running stitch used to adorn tote bags, pouches and other fashion accessories. Getting a textual feel also creates an extra appeal of aesthetics in terms of stitches.
3. Sashiko Coasters/Trivets: Ideas like coasters and trivets do help in practicing the techniques and at the same time they are also the minute artwork. These are really great to do of course and make good homemade presents too.
4. Sashiko Appliqué: As mentioned earlier, it can be used to patchwork or appliqué the motifs and designs of clothes, bags or home accessories. This gives a special touch of aesthetics to the typical sashiko work.
5. Sashiko Quilting: Sashiko makes a great addition to today’s quilting patterns; it can either be used as the primary stitching technique or interlaced onto quilting projects.
6. Sashiko Bookbinding: This can be applied to books, journals or even sketchbooks to come up with amazing work that serves the intended purpose as well.
7. Sashiko Jewelry: Some of the sashiko patterns are embroidered on jewelry items such as pendants, earrings, and brooches for the more handmade appearance of it all.

The versatility of sashiko allows for endless creative applications beyond the traditional functional textiles.

SASHIKO IN OTHER ART FORM

1. Sashiko Paintings/Illustrations: Some artists adapt the sashiko stitch designs and turn it into abstract paintings, illustrations and conjunction artwork and picture using the sashiko stitch pattern as the basis of the artwork.
2. Sashiko Sculptures: Sashiko stitching evoked 3D pieces; the textural application of sashiko stitch was used to build material 3D fiber art sculptures.
3. Sashiko Ceramics: Some potters have incorporated sashiko inspired patterns and stitches on the exterior of pots, bowls, and other practical items for use in the table using the application of stencils, which marry Japanese traditional textile arts with ceramics.
4. Sashiko Paper Arts: Having been developed as a form of needlework to reinforce clothing, sashiko motifs have been incorporated in origami, paper cutting, and other traditional arts associated with Japanese paper, which takes advantage of the presence of straight lines of stitching.
5. Sashiko Jewelry & Metalwork: Jewelry and metal craftsmen have incorporated sashiko patterns on such gems, charms, amulets and other accessories as the sashiko craft has been rendered in precious metals and stones.
6. Sashiko Photography: There are some photographers who have captured images of sashiko, specifically targeted at the texture and shapes of the stitching.
7. Sashiko Digital Art: Due to the influences in technology and contemporary art and designs like the digital art and designs, sashiko patterns are seen now in small pixels and can be seen in illustrations done on textile, and other media.

These are only a few examples of how the principles , language , and methods from sashiko have migrated to other forms of art other than textile art. This is a craft originated from Japan and as such, the art work that can be made using it is not very limited but can be worked on depending on the designer’s desire.

Conclusion

In conclusion, one of the long-staple Japanese craft sashiko, has successfully created its place in fashion, art, and design trends. Aside from its original origins as a utilitarian sewing technique employed for strengthening garments, sashiko has evolved—to great potential—into a creative tool that various practitioners across the creative spectrum are already keen on adapting and appropriating.

By extending sashiko’s graphical compositions into paintings, sculptures or digital art and including this time-honored craft in actual fashion accessories and clothing, the potential of sashiko as art expression is explored. Sashiko is slowly making its way in contemporary fashion through innovative designers and brands who not only give a new sense of aesthetics but incorporate the essence of Japanese sashiko and new-age design.

However, it is always possible to recognize that the essence of sashiko embroidery and its focus on simple and repetitive stitching represents the beauty of a moment of reflection on the tradition of Japanese textiles for contemporary artists and artisans. Whether practiced in fabrics or ceramics, in gems or in the simplest of forms, the beauty of sashiko’s design and the sense of history it carries forward make it a timeless choice for those who appreciate its pleasing aesthetic. In the wake of the pessimism signifying sashiko’s transformation, it becomes exemplary of the timeless charm of a craft tradition and what time-honored art could have in store for itself in today’s world. The formats and flexibility of this Japanese tradition also make it sustainable and capable of captivating the audience in other different art forms.

Reference link

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