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What’s New in the World of Cellulose Fibre and Biosynthetics?

Published: July 19, 2024
Author: TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

Latest developments in the sustainable textile industry will be introduced and discussed at the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 – New with  Biosynthetics” in Cologne, Germany and online, on 12-13 March 2025.  Abstract submission is now open. 

Hürth, 11 July 2024:

The nova Institute, the organization behind the well-known annual “Cellulose Fibres Conference,” is getting ready for a new, more expansive edition in 2025.

The textile sector is always searching for sustainable solutions because the EU’s climate change ambitions depend critically on them. The fashion business contributes significantly to world emissions (10% of total CO2 emissions), which should be decreased in favor of the Green Deal’s regulations. This has a special impact on the management of textile waste and microplastic contamination from washing synthetic clothing made of fibers derived from fossil fuels, like polyester. It is necessary to (re)turn to more sustainable options. Increases in the percentage of renewable fibers are required. How is this possible to accomplish? through the utilization of above-ground carbon from CO2, biomass, and recycling.

Cellulose Fibres 

This implies that wood from sustainable forest management as well as all forms of cellulosic waste streams from agriculture, cotton processing waste, textile waste, and paper waste (biomass) can be used as the raw material for cellulose fibers in textiles. The next generation of circular fibers can even be made from carbon emissions from the air.

Because blended fibers are used so often, recycling textiles presents a dynamic problem. Complying with the EU textile policy, the industry has a “fibre to-fibre” solution thanks to breakthrough technologies that produce new fibers from the cellulosic portion of textile waste.

The challenge of recycling textiles 

Utilizing current resources is a wise tactic, and recycling textiles into new cellulose fibers is something that should be improved on a larger scale. Only 1% of the textile industry’s waste is now recycled “fibre-to-fibre,” largely because of unresolved issues. The new standards from Brussels will result in a higher percentage of recycled fibers in textiles, and large-scale textile recycling will require the implementation of the required logistics and technology. One important reason for the loss of much of this is the insufficient regulation of textile waste disposal substance as a result of burning. The difficulty in recycling textiles made of mixed fibers is another important factor.This raises the question of what cutting-edge processing methods are now accessible.

Biosynthetics – a new topic on the rise 

The increase in textile demand in recent decades is significant, with an increase of 460 % between 1960 and 2020. To meet this demand, and at the same time offer the industry sustainable solutions, it is necessary to consider all sustainable man-made fibres that can be scaled up in near future. This area can be the biosynthetics. This category includes bio-based polymer as well as CO2-based polymer fibres 

for textiles. There are numerous options for this, including polyester fibres (such as PLA, PEF or PHA) and polyolefin fibres (bio-based or CO2-based PE/PP) and bio-based PA fibres from castor oil. These also include several carbon capture innovations emerging within the fashion, apparel, and textile industry. While the current share is small (1 %), it is expected to grow significantly in the future. 

Technologies are being developed continuously and there is great interest in this new facet of the conference. This promising area is being explored and discussed with leading experts.  

The nova-institute, organiser of the conference, is introducing the new thematic branch on biosynthetics  in response to the growing demand for sustainable textile fibres. In light of this, the conference will host its first sessions on biosynthetics in 2025. 

What does policy have to do with this? 

As every year, the conference will also focus on current political developments. In 2022, the EU Commission has published the “EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles”, but the proposal for the “Green Claims Directive” (2023) is also relevant for the textile industry. The conference program will focus on the impact of the regulations on the day-to-day business of the industry. 

Solutions and visions 

The ideal foundation for the future sustainable textile industry will be made up of cotton and rapidly expanding cellulose fibers. Bio- and CO2-based synthetic fibers, or “biosynthetics,” will also be a major source of support, as will high fiber recycling rates for all fiber types. Most synthetic fibers derived from fossil fuels can someday be replaced by this mixture. To do this, industry cooperation is essential. For important stakeholders, the “Cellulose Fibers Conference 2025” offers a special chance to promote networks, cooperation, and innovation.

The conference in a nutshell 

214 attendees attended two conference days in Cologne, either in person or virtually, in 2024. Highlights included 40 lectures followed by engaging panel discussions, the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award, an exhibition, a poster session, and several opportunities for networking. In 2025, all of this will happen again with fresh subjects, speakers, and contributions. The full value chain, including lignocellulose, chemical pulp, cellulose fibers like rayon, viscose, modal, or lyocell, as well as new developments, will be covered at the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025.” Examples of these applications include textiles made from renewable fibers, nonwovens like wet wipes and composites, hygiene products, and packaging. In addition, the conference will cover issues including feedstocks, new technologies, biosynthetics, sustainable carbon cycles, and the circular economy.

Call for Abstracts 

Enterprises and research institutes are invited to contribute to the program and present their innovative products, technologies or developments. Deadline for submission is 30 September 2024

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