Chemical finishing
Various finishing agents and methods are used in chemical finishing depending on the performance characteristics required of the fabrics. The fabrics undergo proofing, squeezing and drying processes in order to achieve different styling effects (e.g. soft feel) and functional properties (e.g. water-repellent, stain-resistant, non-iron, flame-retardant, etc.). Modern finishing shops use fully automatic processes to calculate, prepare and pipe the recipes to the individual stenter frames. We have efficient laboratory equipment for the development of new innovative finishing formulations.
Mechanical finishing
The aim of mechanical finishing is to change the structure and/or surface texture of the fabric. We have a range of machines and systems for this purpose:
Shrinkage line (Sanfor): In order to prevent fabrics from shrinking when exposed to water and heat, they are intentionally put through this industrial process in advance. No chemicals are used in the process; the fabric is just fixed using moisture, heat and pressure. Fabric finished in this way is generally guaranteed to have a high dimensional tolerance of about +/– 1 % and is called «shrinkproof» or «low shrinkage».
Calender: The fabrics are flattened and smoothed in the calendering process. They then take on a certain sheen and gloss. The fabric is passed through rollers with adjustable pressure settings. The look and feel of the fabric can be altered by varying the roller effects, rolling temperatures and roll configurations.
Brushing machine: The textile brushing process have grown in prominence in the last few years. The peach-skin or carbon finishing effect is achieved by using carbon brushes to fluff up the fibres and generate a fine, short and dense fuzz on the surface of the fabric. The density and fineness of the pile are crucial to the feel and essentially depend on the quality of the yarn and the fabric texture.
Continuous tumble-drier: High-permanence fabrics with a super-soft feel and washed-out look are not only in greater and greater demand in the bespoke shirt sector but in many other areas of application. The versatile «Enairgy» continuous tumble-drier combines two basic inherent systems. Firstly, it is possible to tumble-dry fabrics continuously in hanks or full widths and, secondly, there is a broad range of effects which can be achieved with the highly varied speed and moisture control options. Everything is possible with the «Enairgy», from the soft-feel finish right through to the permanent used look. We also work closely with other finishers and are therefore able to offer raising services.
Reference: https://www.cilander.ch/en/competence/processes/finishing.html
