Pioneering Sustainability in the Global Textile Industry
Mr. Alagesan Seniappan
Based in Tiruppur, Tamil Nadu, Eastman Exports manufactures and supplies garments to luxury fashion brands worldwide, with the United States as its primary market.
Founded in the 1970s as a small dye house in the home of Mr. N. Chandran, the company has grown significantly, now generating an annual revenue of approximately Rs 1,500 crore.
Eastman Exports is recognized for its sustainability initiatives, with Mr. Alagesan Seniappan, Senior Vice President of ESG & Quality, detailing the company’s efforts in this area through an interview format prepared for publication.
TVC Media recently had the opportunity to speak with Mr. Seniappan, who has been integral to Eastman Exports’ sustainability initiatives since joining the company in September 2010. With extensive experience in the textile manufacturing industry since 1996, he has played a crucial role in enhancing quality assurance and implementing sustainable practices. Under his leadership, Eastman Exports is at the forefront of sustainable garment production, establishing new standards within the industry. His commitment to quality and sustainability has earned him a respected reputation in the global textile sector, inspiring others to embrace more sustainable practices.
Could you elaborate on the sustainability initiatives your company has undertaken in recent years? Have you obtained any sustainability certifications, and if so, which ones?
Eastman Exports Global Clothing Pvt Ltd is guided by the principles of ‘Reduce, reuse, recycle’. As a responsible manufacturer, we have undertaken numerous initiatives aimed at sustainability, right from sourcing sustainable raw materials and managing water, chemicals and waste, to reducing energy consumption and greenhouse gases.
We began evaluating our environmental performance in 1999 with ISO 14001 certification. Ever since then, we have continuously worked towards minimising our carbon footprint. Our quest for sustainability led us to become a member of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition in 2017. We also launched the Higg FEM assessment.
In 2018, we became a contributor to Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). Our commitment led us to adopt science-based targets (SBTi) in 2019. Earlier this year, SBTi approved our near-term target to reduce absolute Scope 1 and 2 GHG emissions by 45% by FY 2030, from the base year FY 2020. We have also pledged to reduce absolute Scope 3 GHG emissions by 25% within the same timeframe, including biogenic land-related emissions and removals from bioenergy feedstock. The ongoing implementation of GreenStitch software for GHG Accounting & LCA highlights Eastman’s dedication to addressing the climate emergency.
Since 2020, we have been disclosing our water performance through Clearstream and confirming our ZDHC chemical compliance levels through InCheck from 2021. To address waste management and close the loop in garment manufacturing, we joined ‘Reverse Resources’ last year. This platform has awarded us a certificate for effective textile waste management this year.
Through continuous R&D, we have successfully been recycling more than 70% of water in all our factories. We recycle and reuse over 90% of water in dyeing processes. Currently, we recycle 3-4 million litres of wastewater daily and draw less than 10% of freshwater from natural sources. Additionally, the salt generated in production is reused with advanced technologies, moving us towards becoming water-positive.
Regarding power consumption, 80% of the energy requirement for our Tier 1 garmenting factory is sourced from renewable sources such as solar and wind. For our Tier 2 dyeing factory, 60-70% of the energy, and for our Tier 3 spinning unit, 30% of the energy is obtained through power purchase agreements.
We have also been certified by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Fairtrade, and Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for cotton, OEKO-TEX 100, SEDEX, GRS, RCS, OCS, etc. These certifications further promote transparency across the supply chain by tracking and confirming the origin and manufacturing procedures of the materials utilised.
How do you ensure that your suppliers adhere to sustainable practices? Do you provide training or guidance to your suppliers regarding sustainability?
Our suppliers are acutely aware of market demands, including the growing emphasis on sustainability. Many of them proactively undergo certifications from independent authorities that evaluate and verify their adherence to sustainable practices. These certifications serve as credentials that suppliers present to manufacturers like us.
When selecting suppliers, we exercise due diligence to ensure they meet our sustainability standards. By partnering only with suppliers who have demonstrated their commitment to sustainability, we ensure that our supply chain aligns with our environmental values.
While we do not provide formal training or guidance to our suppliers, the global nature of our supply chain means that our partners often come equipped with the necessary knowledge and certifications. This approach allows us to collaborate with suppliers worldwide who are already committed to sustainable practices, reducing the need for additional training from our end.
Are you experiencing increased demand for sustainable products from your clients? Have you encountered any challenges in meeting these demands?
Prominent brands show a distinct preference for manufacturers that implement sustainable practices across their entire production value chain. This is particularly relevant for companies like Eastman Exports, whose primary markets are the United States and European nations.
For us, meeting this demand hasn’t been a huge hurdle. We’ve always been committed to minimising waste and our environmental impact, and that has guided our investments in machinery and processes. It’s true that setting up sustainable practices can require upfront costs, but the growing popularity of eco-friendly clothing makes it a worthwhile investment in the long run.
Do you find that clients are willing to pay a premium for sustainable products? How do you justify the potentially higher cost of sustainable production to your clients?
Consumer demand for sustainable products is definitely rising, but the price increase for the final product hasn’t kept pace. Even with a slight price bump, it doesn’t fully reflect the cost involved in sustainable production. Clients and their customers are coming to expect sustainability as part of the standard manufacturing process.
Looking ahead, we believe sustainability will become the norm. As such, the responsibility will fall on manufacturers to comply with sustainable practices without necessarily charging a premium. Our commitment to sustainability is not just about meeting current demands but also about future-proofing our business and contributing positively to the environment.
What advantages do you believe your company gains from adopting sustainable practices? How do you differentiate yourself from competitors in terms of sustainability?
Sustainable practices give us an edge over other manufacturers and help acquire clients looking for eco-conscious partners. Our investment in sustainable machinery, processes, and ongoing research puts us ahead of the curve. However, we recognize that sustainability will soon be the industry standard. That’s why we’re constantly innovating and refining our methods. This ensures we stay at the forefront of sustainable garment manufacturing, even as the playing field levels out.
Are you investing in innovative technologies to enhance sustainability in your manufacturing processes? How do you incorporate new technologies to improve efficiency and reduce environmental impact?
Absolutely, innovation is at the core of our sustainability efforts. We invest in cutting-edge technologies that minimise environmental impact and boost efficiency.
For instance, in fabric dyeing, we use low-water methods like standing bath dyeing and eco-friendly alternatives like bioscouring. We also leverage certified natural chemicals and automated machinery to optimise resource usage.
Garment dyeing sees similar innovation with E-flow technology, reducing water, chemicals, and energy. We’ve also streamlined processes to use a single bath for multiple steps, minimising waste. Our conveyor drying system further maximises efficiency.
To measure progress, we track our Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) score, aiming for a low impact rating. We achieve zero liquid discharge through water recycling and minimise waste through effective chemical use.
Also, we’ve switched to sustainable biomass briquettes and renewable energy sources like wind power.
Eastman is leveraging a suite of innovations and technologies to enhance sustainability in its operations. Key technologies and practices being implemented include the integration of automation and ERP systems throughout the entire production process from fibre to realisation; utilising various advanced software for designing; ongoing integration of QR codes from fibre till finishing; QR codes for online defect capturing in garment manufacturing; incorporating operation-specific machines, such as placket machines; strategic upgradation of machines older than 10 years.
Additionally, the formation of the Manufacturing Excellence Team underscores Eastman’s commitment to operational excellence. This team focuses on driving performance improvements, implementing best practices, and ensuring continuous innovation in manufacturing processes. Together, these initiatives reflect Eastman’s strategic approach to enhancing sustainability and operational efficiency.
What are your future sustainability goals and targets? How do you plan to further enhance your sustainability efforts in the coming years?
At Eastman Exports, sustainability is a core principle driving every aspect of our business. We’re constantly pushing the boundaries of eco-conscious practices. In the coming years, we’ll ramp up our use of renewable energy sources like solar and wind power to power our factories & prioritise the purchase of goods and services with a low carbon footprint. We’re also committed to a circular economy, significantly increasing the use of recycled materials. These initiatives, combined with ongoing research and development in eco-friendly processes, demonstrate our unwavering commitment to leading the way in sustainable garment manufacturing.
