INTRODUCTION:
Seashell-encrusted sculptures, including a Bust of Neptune, a Shell Elephant, and life-size figures covered in Jet and Coral, were first used by costume and set designer Janine Janet to adorn the storefront windows of Cristobal Balenciaga’s Avenue George V boutique in 1950s Paris.
Alexander McQueen’s 2001, VOSS Collection:
Plate No. 1: Shell Dress[1] Plate No. 2: Mussel Bodice[2] Plate No. 3: Razor Clam Dress[3]
Three shell-encrusted outfits from Alexander McQueen’s ‘VOSS’ spring/summer 2001 collection showcased various aquatic species. The razor clam dress, the mussel bodice, and the shell dress were made from oyster, mussel, and razor clam shells that were found on a Norfolk beach and in the Billingsgate Fish Market. In addition to mentioning the performative and transformational impact of McQueen’s clothing, model Erin O’Connor recalls cutting herself while donning the razor clam dress on the Voss catwalk. Prada Fall/Winter Collection 2017:
Miuccia Prada offered shell necklaces that were wrapped in gold wire and fastened to gold hardware for the fall/winter 2017 collection. The outfits were fashioned on both men and women and placed on top of crochet sweaters and bikinis, which complemented the collection’s 1970s-inspired design.
Biogarmentry, a living, biodegradable fabric that photosynthesizes and filters the air, was created by Roya Aghighi.
By utilising algae to dye leather jackets, Brutus is revolutionising the fashion industry and developing a unique colour and treatment known as algalizing SP. Uncontrollable reactions of the leather to the treatment produce a one-of-a-kind item.
A biodegradable foundation layer comprised of plant fibres is stitched onto a petroleum-free dress designed by Phillip Lim and Charlotte McCurdy that is coated in bioplastic sequins. The ethereal, translucent green tint of the sequins enhances the ripple impression they produce along the length of the A-line dress. The “concept dress” presents an image of what a world with no emissions may resemble.
In order to establish a new life cycle and engage our senses, the Algae trainers employ bio sheets composed of dead algae that are collected from nature. They are produced in Italy using materials that are native to the country, including recycled PET bottles, reflective glass, real cork insoles, nat-2TM distinctive bioceramic lining, and natural Lactae Hevea ® rubber outsoles. They are also 100 percent vegan.
Sea as an Inspiration
The SS’20 Couture Collection by Iris Van Herpen, which drew inspiration from the aquatic environment and life, was displayed in Paris. In order to explore the depths of the human central nervous system and portray the tangled marine life of the ocean, Herpen sought the help of the Spanish neuroanatomist Ramon y Cajal. The collection began with black and white hues before transitioning into richer tones that complemented the black. The deep sea senses, with their rich reds, purples, and ocean blues, served as inspiration for the colour scheme. The designer produced thousands of white screen-printed mesh layers and 3D halos using the morphogenesis technique. The models appeared during the performance from a light-wave sculpture created by Paul Friedlander.
References:
1. Sveaas, T. (2016, October 20). Sea Shells in Design. Tilly Sveaas Jewellery. https://tillysveaas.co.uk/blog/sea-shells-in-design/
2. “Mussel” bodice. (n.d.). The Museum of Savage Beauty. https://www.vam.ac.uk/museumofsavagebeauty/mcq/mussel-bodice/
3. (2021). Metmuseum.org. https://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/dress-voss-2/
4. Nast, C. (2020, July 4). This Is What Happens When Fashion Designers Go Beachcombing.Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/article/shell-embellished-fashions
5. CNN, M. P. (2020, August 31). Future design: What “living” clothes can do to absorb carbon emissions. CNN. https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/living-textiles-algae-future-sept/index.html
6. Gargiulo, A. (2021, October 26). italian fashion brand brutus dyes leather jackets with algae. Designboom | Architecture & Design Magazine.https://www.designboom.com/design/italian-fashion-brand-brutus-dyes-leather-jackets-with-algae/
7. Hahn, J. (2021, February 22). Phillip Lim and Charlotte McCurdy adorn couture dress with algae sequins. Dezeen. https://www.dezeen.com/2021/02/22/charlotte-mccurdy-phillip-lim-algae-sequin-dress-onexone/
8. Daniel Elkayam – Algae Sneakers. (n.d.). Daniellkayam.myportfolio.com. Retrieved February 18, 2023, from https://daniellkayam.myportfolio.com/algae-sneakers.
