In June 2022, Egyptian denim manufacturer Lotustex Textile has ordered the first Karl Mayer LINK-MATIC® system for automatic batch changes on the Prodye-S slasher indigo dye range. The automation solution considerably simplifies the batch changes on indigo and sizing machines increasing productivity – an output increase of up to 30% is possible, depending on the number of batch changes per day. A couple of years ago, Karl Mayer developed a new concept of indigo yarn dyeing technology called GREENDYE, which can achieve immense savings in water, chemicals and yarn waste. The company has a pilot machine at its showroom in Mezzolombardo in northern Italy and is now producing samples of what the technology can do.
Speaking at the latest Textile Machinery show in Turkey, ITM 2022, Mr. Stefano Agazzi, Head of Technology and Products, Weaving Preparation Commercial Division, KARL MAYER ROTAL, while speaking to the Textile Value Chain, explained that the GREENDYE process is based on dyeing with the nitrogen technology. The nitrogen atmosphere temporarily prevents the necessary oxidation and thus gains time. In the NOX reactor, the dye can diffuse calmly into the fiber composite, adhere there and be fixed. In addition, the indigo concentration increases. These effects enable the yarn to absorb three times more dye than in case of conventional processes.
Excerpts:
Denim Manufacturing and Innovation :
So, as you know denim is an iconic fabric and everybody wants to look denim as a fashion style in the past early in Europe. But today everywhere in the world especially with frank young generation. So, how can you make a difference in the world? When I joined 12 years ago, we decided to follow only a dream — sustainability because this is the key to the future. So, we try to develop the best technology to help everybody to save everything. For this reason, thought process is very important to understand what we mean about sustainability. Everybody is talking about sustainability. In our opinion sustainability is saving everything as much as possible – energy, of course water and of course saving water means a reduced space for wastewater depuration plant, short length machine means less
space for building,steam, etc.
This is our focus for the future. For this reason, we have in our porfolio three different technologies in dyeing. We focused on business and then we worked on improving rope and slasher. Rope and slasher, compared to a conventional machine can save chemicals from 20 to 25%. We can also save yarn and also reduce the machine space with less indigo dye bath.
The last one is green dyeing – GREENDYE machine. New technology in dyeing that look to the future; We want to continue in this field for which we spent a lot of money in R&D and devolopment to save as much as possible in everything. So, we have now short length with a maximum 70m instead of a spread of minimum 100. We can now dye with only three boxes instead of 9 to 12 using nitrogen technology with only 5500 l indigo dye bath.
Thanks to the nitrogen technology, not new but upgraded and using the right dyeing processes we reached best, means we can save 60% of chemicals and use only 1000 litres of waterper hour in the final washing boxes. With a standard speed the dyeing efficiency increases up to 98% and wastage in water is just peanuts. According to these it should be really a sustainable innovation because it’s impossible to make iconic denim with zero water, zero chemicals and zero pollution. If you want to get the iconic jeans need to accept a responsible compromise.
This makes a difference and we are focused on this compromise. This is our goal and thanks to the R&D center built in Italy we have a sampling machine which is exactly 1/10th of the industrial machine. Now, the customer can come to Italy with his yarn, understand the technology getting fabric. Later he can come back to us again with the fabrics made and after adjusting our processing, we can reach the quality level he wants.
Finally, we have another innovation, LINKMATIC ®, in which we can save tons of yarn per years in the indigo slasher dyeing. Innovation in green technology. This is sustainability.
The first LINK-MATIC had be sold in Egypt and the first GREEDYE in Taiwan. These machines will be ready for production in March next year. Brands and customers have to produce with sustainability. We will collect data from our green machines and we will be ready to discuss them in mid-2023.
Sustainability in Real Sense
We are also working in the knit department. Brands are trying to change the ideas for the future, but they can’t produce. So, our knit developments will also focus on new technology to come out with innovations. Everybody has to discuss new ideas and come together to make it happen but we need to speak in the same language. Sustainability is the future. Brands should think about the future and we can’t solve this problem of sustainability only by talking. We need brans support. What is sustainability? I want to give something to think about : we use polyester and through home washes the microfibers go into the wastewater and then into the ocean. The microfibers are eaten by the fish and then we eat the fish. Each generation must think differently. Especially the younger generations who are the future. It is necessary from school to create a culture of sustainability. Sustainability should start there.
Many years ago, technology was different, unlike today. We can’t have sustainability using old technologies. We have to change and adopt technology to adapt to sustainability.
You see jeans. When we buy jeans, we have to know how it contributes to sustainability. New generation must change the mentality because we don’t know what will happen in next 50 years but for sure not in a better way. Everything depends on sustainability. We produce for the masses, cheaper things. We should produce in the right way.
All brands should produce garments with sustainability in mind. Think differently and change for the new generation and the future. The brands that follow this path no need marketing because they are on the path of sustainability and quality. Sustainable technology certainly costs more than simple technology but this is the only way to safeguard ourselves for the future.
India and Karl Mayer
Everybody who wants to sell should have a story, true story. Karl Mayer has a story. India is growing up everywhere. In mass production, India and China have average quality. There are good quality denim fabric also, but only in few companies. I have seen many small companies using low quality processes. We need to work on these. Work a lot, together. More quality and less pollution. Think about this. In denim, India has a big potential for sure in the future. India is presently more in the domestic market. Think differently, don’t be in the cheaper and medium market.
India is excellent in spinning, and even finishing. Turkey has another story. They are one of the firsts in producing quality fashion denim. They want to invest in a big way. Amid Russia-Ukraine war and macro-economic factors, the world is undergoing a sea change. Costs are going up. Karl Mayer’s focus is
sustainability.
Start Ups Focus
Our focus today is trying to work with brands. Can we make jeans that can go for 5 years, looking good and sustainable?. Not easy, but we are trying. New companies should go for the best technologies especially in dyeing and focus on sustainability
