News & Insights

ICAC’s 81st Plenary Meeting: Conversation with Eric Trachtenberg

Published: January 12, 2024
Author: TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

Executive Director of ICAC

The ICAC, which stands for International Cotton Advisory Committee, is an organisation comprising members from cotton-producing, consuming, and trading countries. It was established in 1939, with the Secretariat being formed in 1946. The main goal of the ICAC is to achieve a prosperous and sustainable cotton industry. To accomplish this vision, they serve the cotton and textile community by promoting sharing knowledge, encouraging innovation, fostering partnerships, and providing a platform for discussing globally significant cotton-related matters.

The ICAC conducted its 81st Plenary Meeting from December 2nd to December 5th, 2023, at the Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai. On December 4th, Dr. Eric Trachtenberg, the Executive Director of ICAC, engaged in a conversation with the TVC Media Team. 

Dr. Trachtenberg, in his role as the Executive Director, is responsible for strategically leading the organisation’s efforts in serving the cotton and textile community through promotion, knowledge sharing, innovation, partnerships, and facilitating discussions on important international cotton issues. This discussion provided valuable insights into the work conducted by the ICAC.

Greetings and welcome to India. Could you kindly enlighten us regarding the purpose of ICAC, the day it was established, and the underlying objectives it aims to achieve?

In essence, when acquainting individuals unfamiliar with ICAC, I typically employ an analogy likening it to a coalition of nations solely focused on enhancing the global cotton economy. Our organisation consists of 28 member countries, and its primary objective revolves around fortifying this sector. We execute this purpose through various means. Firstly, we disseminate crucial data and reports, as exemplified earlier during the plenary session, where our Secretariat team delved into topics such as cotton trade, specialty cotton, and other consequential developments impacting every stakeholder involved in the cotton industry, from farm to closet.

Secondly, ICAC is heavily engaged in ensuring the proper calibration of instruments used to measure cotton and associated products. Given the intricacies and technical specifications of this trade, uniformity is paramount. Misalignment in measurement instruments across the globe leads to uncertainty and consequential trade disruptions. Therefore, we oversee a comprehensive calibration process aimed at harmonising these instruments worldwide.

Moreover, we convene important assemblies, like the ongoing plenary session in India, where we address matters of international concern affecting our members and relevant stakeholders. These represent some of our longstanding initiatives. However, we have broadened our endeavours in recent years by intensifying our focus on agricultural development, sustainability, and traceability. Our future orientation compels us to view cotton as a complete system, encompassing the entire value chain from farm to customer. Consequently, we are actively seeking to collaborate more closely with retail brands and engage customers to advocate for the merits of cotton. Appreciating cotton’s potential as an effective tool against global warming, we have recently emphasised its role in mitigating greenhouse gas emissions. Through meticulous implementation, we firmly believe cotton can alleviate the burdens imposed by climate change on a global scale.

Furthermore, we have initiated dialogues with other key actors, such as civil society groups in the environmental sector, as we recognise the strength of our narrative. Our confidence stems partly from the fact that we boast the world’s largest collection of cotton-related information. To illustrate, we have recently published a comprehensive 1000-page book detailing every facet of cotton sustainability, thereby substantiating the case for cotton’s value not only in terms of apparel but also regarding environmental conservation and the creation of quality employment opportunities for millions of individuals across the globe.

Why did you choose India as the host country this time? Is there a specific reason behind this decision?

India has long established itself as a prominent player in the global cotton industry, boasting immense contributions as both a cultivator and a consumer. The rich history spanning countless centuries validates India’s indispensable position, bolstering its significance as one of the most influential nations in the cotton sector. Delving into the annals of time, it becomes evident that India’s prowess in cotton cultivation extended well beyond the horizons of the Western world two to three centuries ago. Not only did India excel in the growth of this raw material, but it also possessed unparalleled expertise in the intricate process of transforming cotton into textiles. Therefore, a visit to India carries profound significance, serving as a tribute to its historical affiliation with cotton while concurrently embracing its role as a linchpin in shaping the current and future landscape of the industry.

What specific objectives do you anticipate achieving during this four-day plenary meeting? Could you kindly share your expectations regarding the desired outcome?

The outcome of our discussions is centred around addressing crucial issues of significance. During our recent dialogue, we delved into pertinent subjects such as carbon sequestration and the textile trade. Our panel convened to deliberate on Environmental programs, seep sustainability, and environmental and economic performance, specifically focusing on the definition of regenerative agriculture. These high-level conversations hold immense importance as they establish a common understanding and lay the foundation for progress on these complex matters. Establishing consensus on these larger issues is essential for facilitating advancements at all stages of the value chain. Ultimately, it is the farmer who serves as a key determinant of our success, as emphasised by Norman Borlaug, the esteemed pioneer of the Green Revolution. In conclusion, we must extend our discussions to practical implementation in the field, enabling continuous enhancement throughout the agricultural landscape.

Given the challenges of land availability, environmental factors, and unforeseen events, the future of cotton worldwide appears uncertain. Considering this scenario, how will cotton continue to exist and make its mark in the world? The struggles related to cotton cultivation have affected a significant number of impoverished individuals. What is your perspective on this issue?

I believe various external factors have created pressures in our industry. Specifically, we are facing environmental pressures such as the impact of greenhouse gases and global warming. Additionally, the competition from synthetic fibres has posed challenges to our market share, which has been gradually declining. However, it is important to recognise the opportunity for change that gatherings like these present.

By reevaluating our narrative, we can present a compelling case to brands, retailers, and customers. We can highlight the role of cotton not just as an environmental solution but also as a means to generate high-quality labour, reduce pollution caused by microplastics, and create employment opportunities of superior quality. It is through extensive engagement with our stakeholders that we can effectively push back and enhance the overall health of the global cotton economy.

How can the industry change its perspective on cotton? Can we encourage them to see cotton as more than just a commodity, but rather as a crucial element? What additional message would you like to convey about the significance of cotton to the industry?

It is crucial to gain a comprehensive understanding of the true nature of cotton, as prevalent misconceptions about its environmental impact persist. A thorough analysis of the data has debunked false claims regarding excessive water consumption and pesticide usage. Advocating transparency and honesty, we possess the authentic data that supports our assertions. From an ecological and sustainable perspective, the longevity of cotton garments and their positive life cycle assessments contribute significantly to the sustainability cause. Another aspect worth considering is the vast employment opportunities generated by the cotton industry, benefitting approximately 24 million individuals worldwide. Personal experiences in Sub-Saharan Africa have exposed the dire poverty faced by numerous farmers in the region. For them, cotton acts as a lifeline, potentially determining survival or demise, as it remains the sole source of cash income in areas like the Sahel.

Moreover, our focus encompasses the enhancement of cotton’s competitiveness in the textile sector. By implementing cutting-edge technologies and tailored designs, we aim to optimise cotton’s compatibility with industrial and technical applications. Consequently, our endeavours at ICAC represent a reimagining of our approach, and we eagerly anticipate collaborating to advance the cotton economy, transitioning from a defensive stance to an offensive one.

Conclusion

The interview with Dr Eric Trachtenberg, Executive Director of the ICAC, shed light on the organisation’s mission to enhance the global cotton economy. The 81st Plenary Meeting held in Mumbai aimed at addressing crucial issues such as carbon sequestration, regenerative agriculture, and the textile trade. Dr. Trachtenberg emphasised the need for practical implementation and continuous enhancement throughout the agricultural landscape. Despite environmental pressures and competition from synthetic fibres, the ICAC aims to change the perspective on cotton by highlighting its role as an environmental solution, generator of high-quality labour, and reducer of pollution caused by microplastics. They also stressed the significance of cotton in providing employment opportunities and its positive life cycle assessments. The ICAC seeks to collaborate and advance the cotton economy, transitioning from a defensive to an offensive stance.

Related Posts