By Mr Mayank Mody, Director, Mody Linen Fibre Pvt. Ltd. & Dr Guddo S. Nadiger, General Secretary, Non-Conventional Fibres Association
Humans are the only species on Earth that require manufactured fabrics for clothing, which significantly impacts nature. Unfortunately, our apparel industry has shifted from sustainable materials like leather and wool to fabrics that cause immense damage to our ecology. This has led to ecological degradation and calls us to reassess our approach to fashion and textiles. Sustainable, regenerative agriculture can provide a solution to these environmental problems.
The Problem:
The textile and apparel industry has focused on short-term gains for centuries, resulting in ecological problems. This approach of prioritising profit over environmental impact has led to excessive waste, increased production, and environmental pollution. The statistics speak for themselves:
- Ninety-two million garments end up in landfills each year.
- Textile manufacturing contributes to 20% of global wastewater production.
- Fast fashion now produces twice as many clothes as it did in 2000.
Moreover, emissions from the apparel industry are projected to increase by 50% by 2030.
The Solution:
To address these issues, we need to shift our approach to prioritising long-term sustainability. This requires a comprehensive strategy encompassing natural and sustainable fibres, circular economy practices, waste reduction, and designing with nature to clean oceans, restore soil health, increase biodiversity, and deliver a positive climate impact.
Focus on Sustainable Fibres
To reduce the negative environmental impact caused by conventional fibres, such as cotton, wool, silk, jute, polyester, and viscose, we must promote and prioritise using sustainable and renewable fibres. Cotton, wool, silk, and other plant and animal fibres provide comfort and are also renewable, biodegradable, and carbon-neutral, ensuring their usage does not further deplete the environment.
The Need for Change
With approximately 100 billion garments produced each year, it is alarming to note that only a fraction of them are recycled, leading to vast amounts of clothing waste. The textile industry’s high water consumption and carbon emissions have also worsened the ecological impact. The increasing popularity of fast fashion and the projected population growth of 9 billion by 2030 create a double whammy concerning environmental damage and wastage.
Embracing the Rental Economy
One approach to mitigating this issue is to promote the clothes rental economy, which provides variety and affordability for consumers while reducing ecological damage. By encouraging the use of existing clothing stock and focusing on access rather than excess, we can significantly decrease the demand for new apparel production.
Exploring Sustainable and Regenerative Fibres
To create a positive alternative for future generations, looking beyond conventional fibres and exploring the potential of non-conventional options is crucial. Fibres derived from banana, bamboo, hemp, palm leaves, sisal, flax, screw pine, water hyacinth, ramie, and korai grass offer sustainable alternatives that can be used in a wide range of applications. These fibres possess unique properties and contribute to sustainable fashion practices by reducing dependence on resource-intensive and ecologically damaging materials.
Examples of Non-Conventional Plant Based Fibres
- Banana fibres: India, the world’s largest producer of bananas, can leverage banana waste to extract fibres for blending with other materials, reducing labour costs and increasing yields. Banana fibres have diverse applications and can produce high-quality currency paper, packing cloth, and ship towing ropes.
- Bamboo fibres: Known for their strength, flexibility, and antibacterial properties, they find applications in clothing, non-woven fabrics, home furnishing, and medical textiles. India, China, and Japan are major producers of bamboo.
- Hemp fibres: Hemp offers numerous benefits, including resistance to mildew, natural antibacterial properties, UV radiation obstruction, and good heat conductivity. It has applications in linen-like fabric, home furnishing, floor coverings, paper, composites for the automobile industry, and more.
- Palm leaf fibres: Extracted from palm leaves, these fibres can be used to make ropes, hats, fishnets, and brooms and are exported globally.
- Sisal fibres: Although the sisal industry in India is unorganised, sisal production offers significant potential for twine and rope production, agro textiles, speciality papers, filters, mattresses, and more.
- Flax fibres: Flax fibres are extensively used in the textile industry as linen fibres, ropes, shipping cords, kitchen towels, sails, tents, and canvas. India is a net importer of flax fibres, with substantial scope for its cultivation and usage.
- Other non-conventional fibres, such as screw pine, water hyacinth, ramie, and korai grass, can also be explored for their unique properties and applications sustainably.
Examples of Non-Conventional Animal Based Fibres
- Pashmina: It is a remarkable fibre renowned for its lightweight yet high insulation properties. This makes it ideal for cold climates, ensuring comfort and style.
- Muga Silk: It can absorb a remarkable 85.08% of harmful UV rays, making it an excellent choice for sunny days. Additionally, it possesses a natural lustre and incredible durability, offering garments that last for generations.
- Eri: It is a durable and elastic fibre that blends effortlessly with other materials like wool, different hair fibres, and cotton.
- Tasar: It is highly regarded for its breathability, softness, and durability. It provides excellent moisture regulation, keeping the wearer comfortable in varying weather conditions.
- Camel Hair: Fabric made from camel hair is famed for its excellent insulating properties, providing warmth and comfort. The unique structure of camel hair helps regulate body temperature, making it an ideal choice for outerwear in cold climates.
- Mohair: It boasts exceptional qualities. Its long, lustrous fibres are known for strength, resilience, and durability. Like wool, mohair absorbs and retains moisture, offering comfort in various weather conditions.
- Alpaca Hair: It is a luxurious, hypoallergenic fibre with an incredible range of natural colours. It possesses remarkable softness and provides excellent insulation.
Conclusion
The availability of non-conventional fibres presents a promising opportunity for the fashion industry to shift towards sustainable and regenerative practices. By adopting these alternative fibres, we can mitigate the apparel industry’s environmental impact, promote sustainable buying and usage of clothing, and work towards creating a more sustainable economy. Companies like Mody Linen Fibre Pvt. Ltd. and NCFA lead the way by actively promoting sustainable, regenerative agriculture for fashion fabrics.
The transition to a regenerative fashion industry benefits the environment and empowers individuals to make conscious choices about their clothing purchases. By embracing sustainable fibres, the fashion industry can play a vital role in mitigating the climate crisis and delivering positive impacts for both people and the planet.
Remember, “When we change the fibre we USE, we mitigate the abuse.
When the buying stops, the making will, too.”
