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Exploring the Artistry of Chikankari: A Journey into Lucknow’s Embroidery Tradition

Published: June 1, 2023
Author: Exotic

Once upon a time, in the city of Lucknow, a beautiful embroidery style was born. This embroidery style was called Chikankari, and it soon became one of the most cherished and sought-after forms of embroidery in India. The art of Chikankari involves the delicate and intricate embroidery of fine muslin or cotton fabric, using white thread on a white base. It is said that this embroidery style was created by a Mughal empress who was inspired by the intricate patterns she saw on the walls of the palaces in Persia. She brought this art form to India and it soon became a beloved craft of the Nawabs of Lucknow.

Chikankari is not just an embroidery style; it is a work of art that requires patience, skill, and an eye for detail. The artisans who practice Chikankari spend countless hours delicately weaving their magic onto the fabric, creating intricate and elaborate patterns that are a testament to their skill. The beauty of Chikankari lies in its simplicity. The embroidery is done in white thread on a white base, creating a subtle yet elegant design that is perfect for any occasion. The designs themselves range from delicate floral patterns to geometric shapes, and each design is unique in its own way.

Chikankari is not just a craft; it is a way of life. It is a tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation, and it continues to be a cherished art form to this day. In fact, Chikankari has become so popular that it is now being used to create a variety of clothing items, from sarees and kurtas to dresses and even accessories. As you walk through the streets of Lucknow, you can see the art of Chikankari come to life in the form of beautiful garments hanging in shop windows and adorning the people walking by. It is a reminder of the rich history and culture of this beautiful city, and a testament to the timeless beauty of this beloved embroidery style.

Shadow work Chikankari

Shadow work is a type of Chikankari embroidery that involves creating a design on the backside of the fabric, which creates a shadow or outline effect on the front side. In this technique, the embroidery is done on the wrong side of the fabric, with the right side facing down. The thread used for embroidery is pulled through to the right side of the fabric at regular intervals to create a series of small, delicate stitches that follow the pattern on the back. The result is a subtle yet intricate design that appears to be floating on the fabric.

Shadow work is a popular form of Chikankari embroidery and is often used to create intricate floral patterns and other delicate designs. It requires great skill and patience, as the embroidery has to be done very carefully to ensure that the stitches do not show through on the front of the fabric. Shadow work is typically done using white thread on a white or light-colored fabric, although it can also be done in other colors for a more vibrant effect. The end result is a beautiful, ethereal design that adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to any garment.

Phanda and Murri work Chikankari

Phanda and Murri work are two types of Chikankari stitches that are commonly used in this traditional embroidery style. Both of these stitches involve creating small, circular knots on the fabric, but they differ in their size and shape. Phanda work is a type of Chikankari stitch that involves creating small, rounded knots on the fabric. These knots are created by twisting the thread around the needle and then pulling it through the fabric to create a small, circular knot. Phanda work is often used to create floral and leaf patterns, and it is a very versatile stitch that can be used to create a variety of designs.

Murri work, on the other hand, involves creating larger, more elongated knots on the fabric. These knots are created in a similar way to Phanda work, but they are longer and more pointed. Murri work is often used to create geometric patterns, and it is a very intricate and time-consuming stitch to execute.

Both Phanda and Murri work are essential to the Chikankari embroidery style, and they are often used in combination with other stitches to create elaborate and intricate designs on fabric. These stitches require great skill and precision to execute, and they are a testament to the incredible talent and craftsmanship of the Chikankari artisans.

Jaali work Chikankari

Jaali work is a type of Chikankari Sarees embroidery that involves creating a delicate and intricate net-like pattern on the fabric. In this technique, small holes are created in the fabric using a needle or small scissors, and then the edges of the holes are embroidered to create a mesh-like effect. This creates a delicate and intricate design that appears as if it is a net or lattice on the fabric. Jaali work is often used to create elegant and sophisticated designs on fabrics like muslin, cotton, and silk. It is a highly skilled technique that requires great precision and attention to detail. The embroidery is done with fine threads in a range of colors, and the designs created can be simple or highly elaborate, depending on the skill level of the artisan

Bakhiya work Chikankari

Bakhiya work is a type of Chikankari embroidery that involves creating a series of simple and small stitches on the fabric to form a beautiful and intricate design. In this technique, the artisan creates a small knot on the fabric, and then creates a tiny, straight stitch on top of the knot. The stitches are then repeated in a pattern to create the desired design. Bakhiya work is often used to create beautiful floral patterns and delicate geometric designs on fabrics like muslin, cotton, and silk. The embroidery is done with fine threads in a range of colors, and the designs created can be simple or highly elaborate, depending on the skill level of the artisan.

This technique is also known as “shadow work” because the embroidery creates a subtle shadow effect on the fabric, which gives the design depth and dimension. The beauty of Bakhiya work lies in its simplicity and the way it creates intricate designs using only a few basic stitches. Bakhiya work is an essential part of the Chikankari embroidery style, and it is often combined with other stitches like Phanda and Murri work to create beautiful and complex designs.

Zanzeera work Chikankari

Zanzeera work is a type of Chikankari embroidery that involves creating a fine mesh-like pattern on the fabric using a needle and thread. In this technique, the artisan creates a series of small, parallel lines on the fabric using a running stitch. These lines are then crossed with another set of parallel lines, creating a mesh-like pattern on the fabric.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Chikankari is a beautiful and intricate embroidery style that originated in the northern region of India. It is a testament to the rich cultural heritage and artistic traditions of the region, and it continues to be a cherished embroidery style that is loved and appreciated by people all over the world. The different types of Chikankari, including Phanda and Murri work, Bakhiya work, Jaali work, and Zanzeera work, each have their own unique style and technique. From the delicate floral patterns of Bakhiya work to the intricate net-like patterns of Jaali work, each type of Chikankari embroidery adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to any fabric.

 

 

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