In a celebration of Indian textile traditions, the National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA) in Colaba is hosting an exhibition titled ‘Sutr Santati’. The two-month-long show, which concludes on January 7, 2024, highlights 125 weaves from 200 artisans, craftspeople, designers, and artists, showcasing the diversity of traditional textile paintings and art forms.
The exhibition, born to commemorate 75 years of Independence, is divided into five themes: Revival, The Sacred, Indigenous Expressions, Nationalistic Themes, and Studio-based Practices. Lavina Baldota, a textile revivalist and curator of the show, described the subject of Indian textile traditions as a “vast sea” that continues to expand the more one explores it.
The exhibition aims to foster national pride by offering a glimpse of the wide variety of techniques, designs, and materials used in Indian textiles. Visitors are enchanted by the delicate drapes that have transformed NGMA into a gateway to India, situated near the iconic Gateway of India in South Mumbai.
The show has been curated in collaboration with the Abheraj Baldota Foundation, a Karnataka-based non-profit organization. The foundation focuses on promoting the collective effort of farmers, spinners, dyers, printers, weavers, artisans, embroiderers, and designers involved in the textile-making process.
One notable highlight of the exhibition is the Kodalikaruppur, a prestigious saree once woven exclusively for the queens and royals of the Tanjore court. This exquisite saree, a combination of Jamdani and dye painting techniques, represents the attention to detail and craftsmanship involved in traditional Indian textiles.
The exhibition also acknowledges the significant role textiles have played in the history of Mumbai. The city’s wealth was generated through the textile trade and the manufacture of mill-made cloth, which laid the foundations for India’s mechanized industry. Mumbai’s influence on elite fashion and interiors extends beyond the subcontinent, shaping trends across the world.
Intriguingly, the exhibition also emphasizes the role of women in the creation of handmade textiles. For instance, 40 women in Srikakulam were trained by designer Gaurang Shah to weave the Ravi Varma panels. This empowering initiative has grown to involve 200 women, reflecting a renaissance in the field of handcrafted textiles.
The ‘Sutr Santati’ exhibition at NGMA signifies a move towards recognizing textile as an art form and preserving it as an intangible cultural heritage. By highlighting the expertise, knowledge, and work required in textile craftsmanship, the exhibition aims to elevate the status of textiles to that of fine art.
Visitors of all backgrounds are encouraged to explore the rich tapestry of Indian textile traditions on display at NGMA, as the exhibition offers a fascinating journey into the country’s diverse cultural heritage.
