Celebrating a Decade of Handloom Day: Preserving India’s Textile Legacy

India’s Handloom Day, celebrated annually on August 7th, marks a significant milestone in 2024 as we commemorate a decade of honouring our rich textile heritage. This year’s celebrations were particularly special, with the Textile Value Chain and Anveshanam Foundation organising a webinar graced by eminent guests, including Ms. Roop Rashi, Textile Commissioner of the Government of India, and Mr. Sundar Murugesan, Joint Director of HEPC, Chennai.

The webinar also featured various panellists, including artisans and representatives from foundations working tirelessly to support the handloom industry. These individuals shared their experiences, challenges, and innovative approaches to preserving and promoting India’s textile heritage.

One notable example is the Anveshanam Foundation, a Section 8 non-profit organisation dedicated to empowering artisans and preserving traditional crafts. The foundation’s co-founder, Mrs. Ila Dedia, expressed her gratitude for the opportunity to participate in the webinar and connect with like-minded individuals passionate about the handloom industry.

Insights from Ms. Roop Rashi

Ms. Roop Rashi, known for her extensive work in the industry, shared her valuable insights on the handloom sector. She emphasised the importance of treating handlooms as a classic art form, a niche that deserves recognition and support. Ms. Rashi highlighted the need to develop a brand identity that is traceable to the producer, ensuring authenticity and accessibility for all buyers.

“We have a niche. We just need to identify it better. We need to just project it better. We need to get proper shelves for them wherever possible. And we need to get a lot of international interfaces.”

• Developing Niche Brand Identities: One of the main suggestions made by Ms. Rashi was to identify and develop niche brand identities for handloom products that are traceable to the producer. This ensures authenticity and makes the products accessible to all buyers, not just those patronised by specific foundations.
• Ensuring Continuous Working Capital Support: Ms. Rashi stressed the significance of providing continuous working capital support or patronage to sustain the handloom industry. She suggested exploring subscription-driven models where buyers can provide upfront booking, ensuring a steady flow of orders for artisans.
• Fostering International Collaborations: Another key point made by the Textile Commissioner was the need to get proper shelves for handloom products and foster international interfaces. This can help elevate the status of Indian handlooms on a global scale and open up new markets.
• Synergizing with Various Departments: Ms. Rashi mentioned that her office tries to synergize with various departments, including the Honourable Prime Minister’s Office, international agencies, and state governments, to provide support and facilitate the growth of the handloom sector.

Overall, Ms. Roop Rashi’s insights highlighted the need for a multi-faceted approach to developing the handloom industry, focusing on branding, funding, skilling, and international collaborations. Her suggestions provide a roadmap for preserving and promoting India’s rich textile heritage.

Mr Sundar Murugesan: Insights from the Guest of Honour

Mr Sundar Murugesan, Joint Director of the Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC) in Chennai, joined the Handloom Day webinar as the Guest of Honour. His contributions were significant, focusing on the promotion and support of the handloom industry in India.

• Acknowledging Artisans and Weavers: Mr Murugesan began his address by congratulating all artisans and master weavers on the occasion of Handloom Day. He expressed appreciation for their hard work and dedication, emphasising the importance of their contributions to India’s rich textile heritage.
• Role of the Handloom Export Promotion Council: He highlighted the HEPC’s role in promoting Indian handlooms in the global market for over 65 years. The council has been actively organising various overseas events aimed at benefiting merchant exporters, manufacturers, and small MSME companies involved in handloom production.
• Opportunities for Producers: Mr Murugesan informed participants about the various programs HEPC offers, including subsidised participation in global markets. He encouraged producers and handloom clusters to connect with HEPC for assistance in arranging buyer-seller meets, both domestically and internationally. This initiative aims to improve market access and ensure better realisation of their products.
• Commitment to Artisan Welfare: He reiterated HEPC’s commitment to supporting artisans and producers, mentioning that the council is available 24/7 to assist them. Mr. Murugesan also indicated that HEPC would be organising a special video conferencing session to discuss current market situations and promotion schemes designed for the welfare of artisans and producers.
• Future Engagements: Mr Murugesan concluded by expressing his willingness to collaborate further and gather suggestions from the audience on how to enhance the support for the handloom sector. He emphasised the need for continuous engagement and nurturing of the industry to ensure its sustainability.

With his insights, Mr Sundar Murugesan reinforced the importance of collaboration, innovation, and support in revitalising the handloom industry, ensuring that it remains a vibrant part of India’s cultural and economic landscape.

Mr. Hasham Turabi: A Pioneer in Handloom Innovation

Mr. Hasham Turabi, a distinguished Banarasi weaver from Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, was one of the prominent panellists at the Handloom Day webinar. He is celebrated not only for his craftsmanship but also for his innovative contributions to the handloom industry, particularly through the invention and patenting of a portable Jacquard handloom. His work has earned him recognition, including the TIFAC Award from the Science and Technology Department.

• Contributions to the Handloom Industry: Mr. Turabi’s invention of the portable Jacquard handloom represents a significant advancement in textile technology, enabling weavers to create intricate designs with greater ease and efficiency. This innovation has the potential to enhance the productivity of artisans, allowing them to maintain the artistry of traditional weaving while adapting to modern demands.
• Artistic Expression Through Poetry: In addition to his technical achievements, Mr. Turabi is also a talented ghazal writer and singer. During the webinar, he shared a poignant poem that reflects his deep connection to the art of weaving and the cultural heritage of India. His artistic expression serves as a reminder of the emotional and cultural narratives woven into every piece of handloom fabric.

Mr. Hari Shankar Meher: A Voice for Ikat Weaving

Mr Hari Shankar Meher, a renowned Ikat weaver from Bargarh, Odisha, was another distinguished panellist at the Handloom Day webinar. With a rich history in the craft, he has been weaving since the age of 15 and has garnered significant accolades, including the National Award in 1992 and the Sant Kabir Award in 2018. His expertise in Ikat weaving, particularly the square designs known as Saktapar, is a vital part of the Sambalpur identity.

• Contributions to Ikat Weaving: Mr Meher shared his extensive experience in creating Ikat sarees, dupattas, and other textile products using both silk and cotton. He emphasised the intricate process of tying and dyeing threads before weaving, which is essential to the Ikat technique. His dedication to the craft reflects the cultural heritage of Odisha, showcasing the beauty and complexity of traditional weaving.
• Challenges Faced by Artisans: During his address, Mr. Meher highlighted several challenges faced by artisans in the handloom sector, particularly regarding marketing and access to raw materials. He pointed out the difficulties posed by the Goods and Services Tax (GST), which complicates transactions and affects profitability for weavers. He stressed the need for better direct market access to help artisans secure fair prices for their products.
• Initiatives for Empowerment: Mr. Meher mentioned an initiative he is involved in with the Indian Institute of Management (IIM) Sambalpur, where they are training weavers to define their products and connect with markets effectively. This program aims to empower artisans by providing them with the skills to create viable business models and enhance their market presence. He expressed the importance of forming a producer company that would enable artisans to negotiate better with traders, ensuring they receive fair compensation for their work. Mr. Meher’s vision includes leveraging technology and education to elevate the status of Ikat weaving and provide artisans with the recognition they deserve in the marketplace.
• Call for Support and Collaboration: Mr. Meher concluded his remarks by calling for support from various stakeholders to enhance the initiatives aimed at empowering artisans. He emphasised the need for collective efforts to address the challenges faced by the handloom industry and ensure its sustainability for future generations.

Through his insights, Mr Hari Shankar Meher not only highlighted the beauty of Ikat weaving but also brought attention to the pressing issues that artisans face, advocating for a collaborative approach to nurture and protect this vital aspect of India’s cultural heritage.

Mr. Khengar Manji Vankar: Reviving Traditions Through Natural Dyeing

Mr. Khengar Manji Vankar, a natural dyer and weaver from Bhujodi, Kutch, Gujarat, shared his inspiring story of resilience and innovation at the Handloom Day webinar. After the devastating earthquake of 2001, which destroyed his village and weaving workshop, Mr. Vankar joined the ICDOMUS organisation to equip weavers with new looms, tools, and workspaces.

• Embracing Natural Dyeing: Mr Vankar’s journey took a significant turn when he started exploring natural dyeing techniques. He collaborated with the local NGO, Khamir, to revive the use of traditional black cotton, which had been discontinued for over 40 years. Through his efforts, black cotton has regained popularity, with both domestic and international buyers seeking out this unique fabric.
• Collaborating with Designers: Mr Vankar emphasised the importance of collaborating with fashion designers to reach a wider audience and showcase the beauty of traditional textiles. He believes that by working with designers, weavers can maintain the quality and authenticity of their products while adapting to modern tastes and trends.
• Promoting Honesty and Sustainability: One of the core principles that Mr. Vankar upholds is honesty in his work. He believes that by using natural dyes and organic materials, and by putting their heart into every creation, weavers can produce high-quality fabrics that will sell themselves. He advocates for sustainability, avoiding the use of harmful chemicals and promoting the use of natural fibres like cotton, wool, and silk.
• Giving Back to the Community: Mr Vankar shared a heartwarming anecdote from his childhood when he and his fellow weavers would walk to nearby villages to distribute their products to the poor and needy. Today, he is proud to see people coming to his house to purchase their creations, a testament to the quality and craftsmanship of their work.
• Inspiring the Next Generation: Through his resilience and innovative spirit, Mr. Vankar has not only revived his own weaving business but has also inspired the next generation of weavers. His son, Naresh Siju, is an expert in dyeing and continues to build upon his father’s legacy.

Mr. Khengar Manji Vankar’s story is a shining example of how traditional crafts can be preserved and elevated through dedication, collaboration, and a commitment to sustainability. His insights serve as an inspiration for weavers and artisans across India to embrace their heritage and adapt to the changing demands of the modern market.

Ms. Rasika Wakalkar: Championing Textile Heritage and Innovation

Ms Rasika Wakalkar, the Founder and Chairperson of the TVAM Foundation and founder of the multi-designer store Rudraksh in Pune shared her inspiring journey and vision for the handloom industry during the Handloom Day webinar. With a deep-rooted passion for textiles, she has been instrumental in promoting the weaving cultures of Deccan India.

• Celebrating Handloom Day: Ms Wakalkar began her address by congratulating everyone on National Handloom Day, emphasising that the celebration should extend beyond just one day. She expressed her gratitude for the opportunity to share her insights and experiences in the textile sector.
• The Birth of TVAM Foundation: The TVAM Foundation, established five years ago, aims to bring about a positive transformation in the handloom industry through research and knowledge dissemination. Ms Wakalkar highlighted the importance of storytelling and branding, which she believes are often lacking in the marketing of handwoven products. By focusing on the rich history and cultural significance of textiles, the foundation seeks to enhance public awareness and appreciation for handloom products.
• Addressing the Gaps in Public Awareness: Ms Wakalkar pointed out that there is a significant gap in public knowledge regarding the intricate skills involved in hand weaving, the time it takes to create these textiles, and the reasons behind their pricing. She stressed the need for increased public awareness to reduce bargaining and ensure fair compensation for artisans.
• Collaboration with Government and Institutions: She emphasised the importance of collaboration between various departments, such as tourism, culture, and agriculture, to support the textile sector. Ms Wakalkar proposed that the government should play a more active role in promoting handloom products, including the introduction of traceability tags that inform consumers about the artisans and the craftsmanship behind each piece.
• Research and Documentation: Ms Wakalkar also highlighted the need for improved research documentation and archiving of textile heritage. She advocated for the establishment of weaver service centres that celebrate the achievements of artisans and provide them with recognition for their work.
• Education and Mental Health: In her closing remarks, Ms. Wakalkar suggested integrating textile education into the school curriculum under the new education policy. She believes that engaging with arts and crafts can significantly benefit students’ mental health and personal development, fostering a deeper appreciation for their cultural heritage.

Dr Suresh Bhagavatula: Insights on Handloom, Market Dynamics, and Consumer Awareness

Dr. Suresh Bhagavatula, a professor at IIM Bangalore with a PhD focused on handloom and entrepreneurship, provided a comprehensive analysis of the handloom industry during the Handloom Day webinar. His insights covered the importance of market understanding, consumer education, and the dynamics between handloom and powerloom products.

• • Background and Research Focus: Dr. Bhagavatula’s interest in handloom began during his work with NGOs aimed at empowering women through entrepreneurship. His research has primarily focused on the textile heritage of Andhra Pradesh, particularly the evolution of towns like Upada and Ponduru, which are known for their weaving traditions. He observed how these towns transitioned from producing affordable sarees to creating high-end, recognized products like Upada Jamdani sarees.
  • Market Development and Consumer Awareness: A significant part of Dr Bhagavatula’s discussion revolved around the need for better consumer education regarding handloom products. He noted that many customers lack fundamental knowledge about the differences between handloom, powerloom, and khadi textiles. This gap in understanding can lead to misrepresentation in stores, where powerloom products may be sold as handloom due to consumer ignorance. He shared an anecdote from a class he taught, where many students could not differentiate between handloom and powerloom, highlighting the urgent need for educational initiatives to inform consumers about the intricacies of handwoven textiles.
  • The Importance of Sari Culture: Dr Bhagavatula emphasised the enduring significance of the sari in Indian culture, noting that it remains a preferred garment for women, including corporate leaders. He pointed out that the sari is not only a traditional garment but also a “power dress” that conveys professionalism and cultural identity. This unique position of the sari helps sustain the handloom industry, as it continues to be in demand.

• Recommendations for Improvement

1. Consumer Education: Dr. Bhagavatula stressed the need for educational programs that inform consumers about the nuances of handloom textiles, including their history, production processes, and value. He suggested that storytelling and branding should be integral to marketing strategies to enhance public awareness.
2. Market Responsiveness: He highlighted the importance of developing products that sell quickly to ensure financial viability for weaving clusters. Understanding market trends and consumer preferences is crucial for artisans to thrive.
3. Collaboration with Designers: Dr Bhagavatula advocated for partnerships between weavers and fashion designers to create appealing products that resonate with modern consumers. He noted that the narrative around handloom products should be as compelling as that of luxury items like whiskey or coffee.
4. Research and Documentation: He called for improved research documentation and archiving of textile heritage, emphasising the need for historical context and recognition of artisans’ contributions.
5. Policy Support: Dr Bhagavatula suggested that government policies should distinguish between handloom and power loom products to ensure consumers understand what they are purchasing. He proposed the introduction of traceability tags that provide information about the artisan and the craftsmanship behind each piece.

Dr. Megha Phansalkar: Championing Handloom and Artisan Empowerment

Dr. Megha Phansalkar, the Founder of Tisser Artisan Trust, addressed the Handloom Day webinar, sharing her insights on supporting handicraft and handloom artisans. Her organisation focuses on empowering artisans through various interventions aimed at enhancing their livelihoods and integrating them into the market effectively.

• Dual Perspectives: Creator and Consumer: Dr. Phansalkar emphasised the importance of viewing the craft sector from two perspectives: that of the creator and the consumer. She expressed concern about the current state of artisans, questioning whether they are fully engaged in their craft or if they have become complacent. She highlighted the necessity of selling products in the craft sector, contrasting it with other sectors like health and sanitation, where selling is not a primary concern.
• Interventions for Artisans: Dr. Phansalkar outlined four key areas where Tisser Artisan Trust supports artisans:

1. Institutional Development: The trust focuses on strengthening various artisan groups, including savings banks, producer organisations, and artisan product groups. By empowering these institutions, artisans can take ownership and integrate into the supply chain.
2. Design Intervention: Tisser provides support in improving design processes, introducing new technologies, and creating market-led products. This support is sustained over three to five years, recognizing that building relationships with artisans is essential for long-term success.
3. Financial Support: Addressing the critical issue of working capital, Tisser helps artisans access financial resources and align with government programs. Dr. Phansalkar mentioned a specific investment of 25 lakhs in working capital for artisans in Sambalpur.
4. Market Connection: The trust assists artisans in navigating the complexities of marketing, including addressing challenges related to GST and brand creation. They focus on ensuring that artisans’ inventories become assets rather than liabilities.

• MIST Framework for Market Engagement: Dr. Phansalkar introduced the MIST framework, which stands for Market research, Innovation, Supply chain, and Technology. This framework guides Tisser’s efforts to align artisans with market demands, ensuring that products are relevant and desirable.

1. Market Research: Understanding consumer needs and preferences is crucial for producing market-led products.
2. Innovation: Tisser encourages product, process, and design innovation to differentiate artisan products from machine-made alternatives.
3. Supply Chain Enhancement: The trust aims to create a seamless supply chain that connects creators directly with consumers, reducing the distance and barriers between them.
4. Technology Integration: Tisser employs technology for traceability and to enhance supply chain management. The KOSHA device is used to capture data about the weaving process, including the type of dyes and yarns used, which helps in storytelling and marketing.

• Educational Initiatives and Community Engagement: Dr. Phansalkar also discussed Tisser’s commitment to education and community engagement. The organisation is developing a curriculum for school children and certification courses for youth, aiming to raise awareness about crafts and their significance. They have launched programs like Kaushalya Sakhi, which provides craft certification to marginalised groups, including differently-abled individuals and sex workers.
• Vision for Collaboration and Growth: Dr Phansalkar expressed a strong desire for collaboration across sectors, emphasising that the craft sector thrives on partnerships. She highlighted the need to work together with NGOs, government bodies, and corporate entities to create a supportive ecosystem for artisans.

Her vision extends beyond India, aiming to connect with neighbouring countries like Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Nepal to align their art forms with India’s rich craft heritage. She believes that the customer is central to this endeavour, as they seek innovative products with compelling stories.

In conclusion, the Handloom Day webinar highlighted vital insights from various panellists and the Chief Guest, Ms. Roop Rashi. Mr. Hasham Turabi emphasised innovation in weaving, while Mr. Hari Shankar Meher discussed the challenges faced by Ikat weavers. Mr Khengar Manji Vankar shared his journey of resilience post-earthquake, advocating for natural dyeing. Dr. Suresh Bhagavatula focused on market dynamics and consumer education, stressing the need for artisans to understand their products. Dr Megha Phansalkar outlined Tisser Artisan Trust’s multifaceted support for artisans, emphasising collaboration, innovation, and market connection to empower the craft sector and enhance livelihoods.