Spinnova, the sustainable fibre company, has entered long-term collaboration with the global chemicals company Kemira, to develop an eco-friendly inherent dyeing method for fibre. Dyeing fibre in its manufacturing process could significantly benefit both the textile industry and the environment, and Spinnova is now looking for a brand partner for the disruptive dyeing development.

Inherent dyeing in the Spinnova process means that the cellulosic fibre mass is dyed before extruding into filament. This avoids the excess use of water, energy, heavy metals and other harmful substances that go into dyeing fibre, and subsequent yarn and fabric processes.

“Spinnova’s sustainable fibre and the possibility of inherently dyeing the fibre could be an environmental game changer and could disrupt e.g. the denim dyeing process,” the company says. “The textile dyeing and finishing industry is one of the most chemically intensive industries globally, and one of the worst polluters of fresh water. The traditional textile industry uses thousands of chemicals in various processes of manufacture, including dyeing and printing.”

“In addition to being the most sustainable way of dyeing, the fibre maintains this in-built colour really well. We have already made some successful trials, and the results are very promising,” Spinnova’s CEO and co-founder Janne Poranen explains.

Spinnova’s innovation originates from the pulp and paper industry, which is also one of the areas of expertise for Kemira and an important focus in the company’s R&D work towards bio-based chemicals.

“We have returned to our roots in a way, to improve the quality of the product we have created, while maintaining our zero tolerance on harmful chemicals,” Poranen says.

“Kemira has strong expertise in the chemical applications for the pulp and paper industry and a long history of enabling raw water, energy, and resource efficiency for our customers. In collaboration with Spinnova, we can extend our unique know-how into the development of new innovations in the textile industry; not only in dyeing but also to improve other properties of sustainable textile fibre, such as hydrophobicity and strength,” Kemira’s Director of Global Business Development Mats Berg states.

Spinnova’s strategy is to work with brand owners in developing applications before the fibre is commercially available.

“It is humbling to see how committed brand owners are in sustainability and developing these sustainable solutions with us,” Poranen ends.

Spinnova is a Finnish fibre innovation company that develops ecological breakthrough technology for manufacturing cellulose-based textile fibre. Its patented technology includes no harmful chemicals and no waste or side streams. The fibre is also recyclable with the Spinnova process without harmful chemicals and the company’s raw material commitment is to only use certified wood or waste streams. Spinnova was named a World Changing Idea by Fast Company in 2019, as well as Sustainability Achievement of the year awards by the ISPO and Scandinavian Outdoor Awards in 2020.