To express that the visual universe of India’s most prominent name in fashion is splendid is understating the obvious. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, a fashion designer notable for his vigorous and blended styles and the excellence behind them, has taken hints from India’s rich material history for his collaboration with H&M. The Sabyasachi x H&M assortment blends current and customary outlines in with a gesture towards athleisure and glamping. A key feature of this assortment is the Indian material and print conventions rejuvenated by the Sabyasachi Art Foundation, fastidiously made weaving and multicultural outlines. According to Magazine, Sabyasachi Mukherjee says “Having done couture for the majority of my career, it is very exciting to bring that finesse of craft to ‘ready-to-wear’ and create whimsical and fluid silhouettes that bring relaxed sophistication to everyday life.”
“At H&M, we are thrilled to announce our collaboration with iconic designer Sabyasachi, known for his dynamic use of indigenous crafts and textiles — a language so stunning that it permanently altered the fashion and design landscape of the country,” says Ella Soccorsi, Concept Designer at Collaborations & Special Collections, H&M.
Along with his signature paisley, resort wear motifs, Sabyasachi has managed to give these quintessential, unisex Indian patterns and prints a quirky modern twist with the silhouettes. Making his way through the brink of street style fashion with a glocal, Indo-Western perspective, Sabyasachi’s Royal Bengal Tiger roaring in a never-seen-before avatar, especially in this muted khaki pant-suit cord. The collection features a wide range of fanny packs cinching relaxed kaftan-style dresses in paisleys and muted tones, chunky jewellery, along with other flowy and comfortable ensembles.
The Sabyasachi X H&M Campaign for ‘Wanderlust’ was shot by Justin Polkey with design heading by Anaita Shroff Adajania. Fortunately, it’s transitional and can move effectively into summer and fall. Models include Sumaya Hazarika, Akash, Sana Thampi, Priya Jain and Anugraha Natarajan./Hair by Mike Desir; cosmetics by Maniasha.
This assortment will let Sabyasachi supporters own a portion of his signature design elements—chintz, baroque embroideries, the much-cherished sari—at high-road value. There are additionally going to be numerous firsts. You’ll see Mukherjee make jeans that are loose, well washed and have a low-crotch. It is very high quality and artisinal since it is hand-crushed—practically like you make baandhni or a crinkled skirt. I love denims that can double up as sloppy pajamas and they’re ideal for voyaging. I am done with people wearing jeggings,” he chuckles.
Themed around ‘Wanderlust’, the assortment is a tribute to the worldwide traveler. You will likewise observe block prints, hobo packs, scarves, shades, and heaps of trinkets inspired by my trips to Marrakech, Florence, and Rajasthan. What’s more, so are the visors, fanny packs, the flip-flops and headscarves,” he discloses to Elle.
A similar eclecticism can likewise be found in his menswear, which incorporates kurtas, utilitarian vests, and printed coats. Moreover, a significant number of the outlines can be worn by men and women. “I’ve generally been fascinated by ladies who borrow from men’s closet and men who have ladylike subtleties in their apparel. The vast majority of the garments can be worn by anybody, dependingt upon what you like. I have sized it neutrally. Furthermore, a great deal of the ladies’ jewellery is on men, men’s garments are on ladies; the bags, sneakers, the visor, scarves, and the belts neutral,” uncovers Mukherjee.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee has earlier collaborated with Christian Louboutin or Pottery Barn and both his collaborations strategically bring together the best of two distinct worlds. The man behind India’s most copied label, Sabyasachi believes that H&M’s designer tie-ups are what legends are made of and his work feels validated since it was the brand that approached him so definitely, his product must have felt to be desirable and worthy enough to translate itself to the mass market. We’ve all wanted to have atleast one piece of Sabyasachi’s products in our wardrobes. It took Sabyasachi almost 20 years to finally fulfill this wish of ours when he agreed to collaborate with H&M and come up with something that incorporates Sabyasachi’s signature prints and patterns, is street style and distinctly Indian and at the same time, very affordable.
And you see that across various Sabyasachi lines, be it Kashgaar Bazaaror Wanderlust. But with the latter you’re going high street. How did that impact your aesthetic?
Sabyasachi wanted to break gender and geographic barriers with the Wanderlust collection. Being a traveller, he always wanted to come up with a travel wardrobe that could journey seamlessly from a palace in Jaipur to a pool party in LA. As a result of his wish to create something easy, lightweight and mix-match, Wanderlust was born. A collection that is versatile,something you can wear from morning to night, all over the world and across cultures—it picks up a lot from India, but also from Morocco, Istanbul and Japan. A travel wardrobe can be individualist, rich in quality, beautiful and glamorous.
According to his conversation with Vogue, it took them six months to create the artwork for this collection which incorporates elements from his couture and slow fashion. Hand-quilted lapels and waistbands, embroidered necklines, beautiful borders on skirts, chintz prints, some broderie anglaise etc. was made to scale by the Sabyasachi Art Foundation. Artisanal work has been done in small quantities with a couture spin to this ready-to wear collection.
He also talks about how he wanted to create an affordable collection in order to give back to the middle class and at the same time come up with something that talks about the growing world of inclusivity and fluidity. H&M X Sabyasachi is a collaboration that we’ve been wanting for years and what makes this collection even more desirable is the fact that, even though this collection is available for the masses as any other fast fashion brand, the quality hasn’t been compromised on.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee says, “Sustainability has to be on your mind as a designer today; it’s our responsibility. If we consume less, the world will become more sustainable. With Wanderlust, we’ve stuck to relaxed and classic shapes and colours so that it can lend itself to repetition.”
By Vasavi Mehta
References:
https://www.esquireme.com/content/45511-hm-x-sabyasachi-collection-gets-new-autumn-2020-launch-date
https://www2.hm.com/en_in/life/culture/inside-h-m/hm-x-sabyasachi-designer-collaboration.html
https://elle.in/article/sabyasachi-x-hm/
