National, 25th March, 2022: Opening the Sustainable Fashion Day at the FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week March 23 -27, the Circular Design Challenge 4.0 had six design entrepreneurs shortlisted for India’s first and largest sustainable fashion award presented by R|ElanTM “Fashion for Earth” in association United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP). Chosen according to a broad-based evaluation criterion that included the circular design process, environmental and social impact, business plans and the UN SDGs, the aim of Circular Design Challenge is to promote and nurture environmental champions of the future in the field of fashion, by providing them a platform to present their innovations that are rooted in the principles of circularity.
This season, the platform transcended borders to encourage international nominations in partnership with British Council and Studio MM04 for UK and Germany respectively. The program received over 55 applications from across India as well as United Kingdom and Germany. The final six start-ups were shortlisted following a rigorous online pitch and evaluation process that considered circular design, environmental & social impact, business plans and United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.
Reliance Industries Ltd.’s R|ElanTM felicitated the winner with prizes worth Rs 20 lakhs to convert their sustainable fashion idea into an impactful business reality. The winner also gets an exclusive opportunity to showcase the sustainable collection at the next FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week, in addition to valuable industry exposure and linkages. The winning trophy, introduced for the first time, was made from discarded wood and metal, and designed by CDC 2021 winner, Satyajit Vetoskar of Bandit.
The finalists – CHAMAR by Sudheer Rajbhar, Humanity Centred Designs by Vishal Tolambia, Pieux by Pratyush Kumar, Sanah Sharma by Sanah Sharma, SATAT by Radhika Malhotra and Thaely by Ashay Bhave presented their collections to the final jury
The final jury comprised Mr Atul Bagai, Head, United Nations Environment Programme Country Office, India, Mr Jamal Shaikh, National Editor, Brunch and New Media Initiatives at Hindustan Times, Ms Payal Jain, Principal Designer, Ms Anita Chester Head Materials At Laudes Foundation and Mr Shombi Sharp, UN Resident Coordinator for India.
Commenting on the fourth edition of Circular Design Challenge, Mr Vipul Shah, COO – Petrochemicals Business, Reliance Industries Ltd, said, “We started the Circular Design Challenge, to accomplish the vision of our chairman Mr Mukesh Ambani, to turn India into a world leader in adoption of sustainable and green manufacturing practices. Over the past four seasons, the popularity of the Circular Design Challenge has grown exponentially. It has now become a big movement in the Indian fashion industry, which is nurturing talent in the sustainable and environment-friendly sphere. The Circular Design Challenge has been a tremendous success in India, and we are now contemplating to expand its scope globally.”
Mr Atul Bagai, Head, United Nations Environment Programme Country Office, India, said “The UN Environment Programme is committed to providing strategic leadership and encouraging sector-wide collaboration to accelerate a transition towards a sustainable and circular textile value chain. In collaboration with UN in India, we are pleased to continue our partnership with the 4th edition of the ‘Circular Design Challenge’, to identify and encourage talented designers advancing circular design in India. This year, UNEP has taken a step forward by mentoring the finalists of CDC on key aspects such as Sustainable Fashion Communication and Use of Science-based Tools and Lifecycle Thinking. We congratulate all participants and the finalists for their innovative thinking and passion for bringing about a positive change. “
Mr. Jaspreet Chandok, Head RISE Fashion and Lifestyle said, “With the fourth edition of CDC, we are happy to have been able to transcend borders and connect with a wider audience. Our commitment towards circularity and sustainability has also led us to partner with British Council & Studio MM04 of Germany so as to spread the message of CDC to global markets and circular entrepreneurs. We are thankful to R|Elan™ and UNEP for their continued support season on season that has made Circular Design Challenge such a prestigious platform in the country.”
R|ELAN™ AWARD FOR EXCELLENCE IN CIRCULARITY
This edition saw an additional recognition, of the R|Elan™ award for Excellence in Circularity, to one of the finalists, Sanah Sharma, for outstanding innovation in circular fashion. Sanah will receive a certificate and special recognition for her contribution to the circular economy. She will also have an opportunity to work with R|Elan™’s team to create a unique textile/product/collection using their innovation along with R|Elan™ GreenGold Sustainable Fabric 4.0 and the outcome will be promoted on Lakmé Fashion Week and R|Elan™ handles.
THE FINALISTS
Creativity was in the forefront when the six finalists unveiled their collections at the show.
VISHAL TOLAMBIA – HUMANITY CENTRED DESIGN
Vishal Tolambia with a Bachelor’s degree in Fashion Design and Masters in Fashion Sustainability started Humanity Centred Design through sustainable practices. The aim of the brand was to reduce textile waste and a start up that utilises zero waste design. The brand has designed a local circular recycling framework and supports more than 150 apparel manufacturing MSEs. HCD researched at the London of Fashion UAL and developed an actionable framework for localised recycling and the use of pre-consumer textile waste as well as created circular fashion production especially in Pushkar India. The brand is now working on a new innovative local waste management system to reutilise textile waste generation and recycle 15.
The variety of cropped blouses, hoodie maxi, pants, asymmetric cords, long sleeved maxis along with footwear and handbags was a great collection of sustainable wear.
“HCD paves the way towards a greener, circular economy for the marginalised apparel manufacturing MSEs in India and uplifts the regional identity in the Indian apparel and textile industry. We are the first enterprise that works in sustainable development of MSEs and craft sectors towards sustainable transformation in India with development that is restorative and regerative,” commented Vishal Tolambia.
SUDHEER RAJBHAR – CHAMAR
A visual artist with over four years’ experience, Sudheer Rajbhar’s brand Chamar hopes to showcase the use of sustainable vegan material and modern designs to bridge the gap between the talents of the community. The brand’s products are cruelty free, waterproof, and gender neutral. The brand is creating denims from Khadi and repurposed fabric to jackets of fused leather. The brand has also developed and researched composite material made from recycled rubber tire waste and canvas, which is durable, waterproof, vegan and reheatable if damaged. The material’s properties are close to leather but with better resistance than other faux leather. The brand has also developed textile for denims that has fused waste fabric like old saris with Khadi.
From totes to arm packs, sandals, accessories, and garments with colourful patchwork the look was young trendy and very youthful with checks and geometrics as the firm choice.
“We believe in generating change in societal perceptions, leading to a better representation of people when equality, openness, compassion, innovation are drivers of success in a circular sustainable fashion industry,” stated Sudheer Rajbhar.
PRATYUSH KUMAR – PIEUX
With a bachelor’s degree in Fashion Design and Master in Fashion Body Wear, Pratyush Kumar has five years’ experience in the industry. Making use of deconstructed and reconstructed old clothes, the Pieux brand gives more life to the garments. Working closely with artisans in Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand, for different products, the brand used pattern making to create silhouettes. Using hand spinning and weaving, the brand creates handloom textiles from left over carpet fibres, textiles, ragged and damaged saris that are used for surface texturing, using hand embroidery techniques, while deconstructing and reconstructing old apparel to create garments. Pieux is also working on recycled plastic (rPET) textiles and certified organic cotton, rose, milk Aloe Vera, orange, Cupro and sugarcane textiles without using any toxic substances in the process. Nearly 100 kgs of carpet waste was upcycled to add footwear and eyewear along with the apparel.
There was an assorted line of colourful patched garments bags, back packs, minis, shorts, shirts, sweatshirts and even eye wear that brought a new fashion direction.
“I believe fashion can be attractive and mind blowing without blowing up the planet with over consumption, linear model of manufacturing and using harmful material,” said Pratyush Kumar.
SANAH SHARMA – SANAH SHARMA
Having been in the industry for five years after her Bachelor honours degree, Sanah Sharma’s eponymous label has worked on innovation led sustainability in fashion and a shift from a linear model to circular model. The garments created from zero waste techniques can be converted to table linen, fashion accessories, bed linen or even other garments. One of the cutting methods for zero waste pattern like Planar Flux developed by Sanah was accepted in the syllabus of Iowa State University and academically published. The use of recycled handloom textiles provides an opportunity to eliminate carbon emissions and helps preserve Indian cultural traditions of weaving, which in this case is done by women weaver in Karnataka. In addition, factory reject natural buttons are used for closures and embellishments.
Layers and drapes played an important role for the striped dresses and variety of midis, wrap angular dresses, hooded maxis, pants in muted colours, along with bags to match.
“It is imperative to acknowledge that economy is a manmade concept and therefore can be changed however, ecology is governed by the rules of nature which we cannot change,” remarked Sanah Sharma
RADHIKA MALHOTRA – SATAT
Radhika Malhotra has a Bachelor of Design from the National Institute of Fashion Technology and a work experience of four years. Creating unconventional jewellery, hand crafted from reclaimed teak wood blocks and natural pigments, the SATAT brand also extracts pigments through indigo, turmeric, gypsum, beetroot, Geru, Indian Madder and Khol. The reclaimed teak wood blocks sourced from Gujarat were previously used in construction of old houses. The brand uses natural pigments, which eliminate toxicity caused by synthetic pigments.
It was a beautiful line of bangles, nose rings, pendants, rings, earrings, headgear, anklets, necklaces, armlets and bracelets that was the complete look that women will adore.
“The triple bottom line says a business cannot create value without considering the three Ps that are People, Planet and Profit,” said Radhika Malhotra.
ASHAY BHAVE – THAELY
With a BBA in entrepreneurship degree from Amity University and Accessory Design Study from Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, Ashay Bhave now heads his venture – Thaely. At Thaely all waste defects are recycled to produce more Thaely products. The process is safe, cost effective and low on emission. Each sneaker uses TheilyTex made in collaboration with TrioTap Technologies in Gurugram India and is created with 10 used upcycled waste plastic bags. Thaely Y2K Pro box is made from recycled papers embedded with basil seeds and then dyed with waste coffee grounds. The box can be cut and planted easily. ThaelyTex is a game changer in the sustainable fashion business and is the only mass-produced material from waste plastic bags. The Thaely Y2K Pro uses components from 10 waste plastic bags, 12 plastic bottles and industrial rubber waste. Each pair is packaged in a reusable-shopping tote made from four plastic bottles. The brand also offers a trade-in service where users can trade their old worn out Thaely sneakers and receive a discounted price on the new Thaely products. This allows the brand to responsibly upcycle the Thaely sneakers or refurbish and donate less worn-out pairs.
The trendy sneakers were the focal point of the show in different styles and colours.
“We at Thaely believe in ethnical practices throughout our supply chain and production process. We make sure to only work with suppliers and organisations that believe in fair wages, good working conditions and equal opportunities,” stated Ashay Bhave.
