In her latest Spring Summer 21 collection, Simone Rocha has delivered the gift of sheer, unfiltered escapism. Gilt brocades that remind you of visits to overseas palaces, white broderie anglaise layers reminiscent of cool options under the French sun for hot summer days and there’s even a small castle in the mix, embroidered on whisper-light tulle coats worn over a deep cuffed pant in toile de jouy fabric.
Last week Simone turned 34. She is a young woman with a flourishing business and
her own shops in London , New York and Hong Kong. But with a maturity well beyond her years, Simone crafts a passion that stretches beyond retail certainties that will sell.
“For me, it’s always been people’s feelings about my clothes that’s important,” Simone explained to the press at her London Fashion Week SS21 showcase of 29 looks.
The Dublin-born designer was always one for a brilliant show on the ramp.
Over the years, in London Palaces, churches and Victorian Theatre, she kindly treated us to mesmerizingly stunning shows where we witnessed her changing silhouettes and magic ways with clothing, and how you might wear it.
Last Saturday , Simone unveiled her vision for SS21 at the Hauser & Wirth gallery in Saville Row, in the heart of London’s tailoring district .
The plain white environment was perfect for showing off the sumptuous and elegant fabrics in which she chose to work, from decadent brocades fashioned into dresses and one coat with the additional overlay of a corset dress adding a trompe l’oeil. Bejewelled necklines and personal touches such as SR were monogrammed onto lace.
A plain panelled dress in cream canvas beautifully retained its architectural form over the hips with exaggerated silhouette and then added intrigue with a neckline and pockets trimmed with pearl and crystal stones. Guests arrived by invitation, and a chance to see the clothes up close.
The narrow, draped cape that falls from the shoulders and closely matches the contours of the body is new this season. It is a ‘cocoon’ and a ‘swagger’ cape instead. In black, it looked wonderful and the white version would definitely find favour with brides.
With crystal crocheted bralets sitting over garments adding a deeply exciting 3D quality, Simone weaves a very textured storey. There’s a sustained emphasis on the breasts and
on some looks they are outlined with beads.One of her shooting models was artist Kesewa Aboah along with royal ballet dancer Francesca Hayward and singer Celeste.
Simone knows how to double down on what works, like her father before her, so she breathed new life into her very personal take on length, extravagant use of pearls, and enthralling shoes and bags. Her signature, oversized pearl egg bag and crystal
orbs are again in the mix next season.
Simone explained how she wanted her clothes to represent the escapism that we’re all craving and also wanted them to give the body a sense of security.