Milano Unica 43rd Edition Opens with Expanded International Participation and Focus on Innovation

High-end textile exhibition brings together 737 exhibitors, global buyers and industry leaders to present Fall/Winter 2027–2028 collections

The 43rd edition of Milano Unica, the Italian trade show for high-end textiles and accessories, has opened at Fiera Milano Rho, presenting the Fall/Winter 2027–2028 collections. The exhibition brings together textile manufacturers, buyers, industry associations and international stakeholders while highlighting innovation, sustainability and global market developments.

A total of 737 exhibitors are participating in this edition, reflecting continued international participation and expanded exhibition space across the event.

Exhibitor Participation Expands Across Europe

According to the organisers, this year's edition includes:

• 737 exhibitors in total
• 460 Italian exhibitors
• 144 European exhibitors participating in the Ideabiella, Moda In and Shirt Avenue exhibitions
• 119 companies exhibiting in the Special Areas

European participation has increased 15.2% compared with the corresponding 2025 edition, further strengthening Milano Unica's focus on Made-in-Europe products.

Opening Ceremony Focuses on Innovation

The Opening Ceremony featured institutional addresses from:

• Attilio Fontana, President of the Lombardy Region
• Matteo Zoppas, President of the Italian Trade Agency ICE
• Giovanni Bozzetti

Valentino Valentini, Deputy Minister for the Enterprises and Made in Italy, also addressed attendees, saying:

“The theme chosen for this event – “From roots to the future” - is already an operational plan for the sector. “Made in Italy” is a continuous, day-to-day process geared toward achieving and maintaining a high standard of quality. Today, as we transition from a product-based economy to a process-based economy, innovation combined with tradition is the key to maintaining competitiveness in an increasingly complex and rapidly changing international market. We need to familiarize ourselves with new tools, open new markets, and, at the same time, develop and consolidate our supply chains – the ecosystem in which our production model, consisting mainly of SMEs, best realizes its potential. And the Government is ready to listen to companies and support them.”

Industry Leaders Discuss Innovation and Competitiveness

The roundtable titled "From Roots to the Future: Innovation in Textiles and Fashion" examined innovation as a driver of competitiveness.

Moderated by Nicola Porro, the discussion included:

• Chiara Beghelli, Il Sole24Ore
• Erika Andreetta, PwC Italia and EMEA Fashion & Luxury Leader
• Mauro Sampellegrini, Confindustria Moda
• Stefano Galassi, Limitless Innovation
• David Pambianco, Pambianco
• David Zdravkovic, OC&C Strategy Consultant

The discussion covered innovation, digital transformation, sustainability, manufacturing expertise and international market trends.

Milano Unica President Highlights Industry Outlook

Simone Canclini, President of Milano Unica, said:

“The trust that Italian and international exhibitors continue to place in Milano Unica is the most important recognition of the work carried out over the years and, at the same time, a responsibility toward the entire supply chain. This is why we decided to dedicate the Opening Ceremony to innovation, addressing the topic in its broadest sense. Innovation certainly means investing in research and new technologies, but it also implies reinforcing the Italian manufacturing legacy, developing new competencies, strengthening the dialogue between companies and institutions, and, last but not least, leveraging sustainability as a driver of competitiveness. Milano Unica is ideally the best place where these themes come together and are discussed, giving rise to a shared vision. Data from Confindustria Moda’s Office of Economic and Statistical Studies confirm a constantly evolving international landscape, characterized by differing trends across markets and geographic regions. This is why we believe it is essential to carefully analyze these changes so they can be translated into new opportunities for businesses.”

Textile Sector Records Mixed Performance

According to Confindustria Moda’s Office of Economic and Statistical Studies, the first quarter of 2026 remained challenging for the textile sector.

Key indicators include:

• Industrial textile production: down 1.3%
• Exports: €729 million, down 3.4%

Product performance:

• Silk fabrics: +7.5%
• Cotton fabrics: +2.2%
• Wool fabrics: +1.2%
• Knits: −13.2%

Export market trends:

• France: +8.5%
• China: +7.8%
• Poland: +19.6%
• United States: −10.7%
• Tunisia: −9.1%
• Spain: −5.1%
• Germany: −0.8%

The report also noted increased imports of Made-in-Italy textiles into China alongside reduced exports to Hong Kong, indicating changing international demand patterns.

ICE Supports International Buyer Programme

Matteo Zoppas, President of the Italian Trade Agency ICE, commented:

“The textile industry is the first link in the fashion value chain, distinguished by research into new materials, innovation in fabrics, and the ability of Italian companies to anticipate trends. Milano Unica is where a significant share of the world’s future fashion collections takes shape. This edition is being held against a particularly challenging international backdrop, with global demand down by 8%, a decline that is also affecting Italian exports. The entire sector is facing growing competitive pressure from rivals in the South. Nevertheless, Italy remains the world’s fifth-largest exporter, with a slightly increased share of the global market. This confirms the Italian textile industry's resilience in defending its position, even in the most challenging circumstances, by focusing on quality, innovation, and creativity rather than on price. In this context, the support provided by the Italian Trade Agency ICE is more strategic than ever. For this edition, we expect to welcome 232 buyers and 15 representatives of the international press, alongside an intensive program of matchmaking activities and targeted promotional initiatives in key markets.”

International Observatories and Special Projects

The exhibition also includes:

• Japan Observatory, developed with JFW and JETRO
• Korea Observatory

Special initiatives include:

• The Radical Elegance, an exhibition dedicated to fashion photographer Giampaolo Barbieri
• AquiLANA, highlighting contemporary applications of wool and Made-in-Italy manufacturing heritage
• The Cube Archive: Punk is all around, focusing on research, craftsmanship and experimentation