Milano Unica 42nd Edition Records 25% Rise in European Exhibitors

The 42nd edition of Milano Unica, Italy’s international trade fair for high-end textiles and accessories, opened at Fiera Milano Rho, occupying Halls 8–12 and 16–20, with Spring/Summer 2027 collections presented by 730 exhibiting companies. The latest edition marks notable growth in both exhibitor participation and exhibition space, reflecting renewed engagement from Italian and European textile producers.

Exhibitors from Ideabiella, Moda In, and Shirt Avenue account for 585 companies, representing a 5.2% increase compared with the February 2025 edition. Within this group are 137 European textile manufacturers, a 25% rise, alongside 129 participants from Special Areas, the Korea and Japan Observatories, and 16 publishing houses. The exhibition area has expanded to 25,803 square metres, underlining the event’s scale and international relevance.

Commenting on the results, Simone Canclini, President of Milano Unica, noted that the growth comes amid a challenging period for the global textile and apparel industry, particularly within the luxury segment. He highlighted that the figures demonstrate continued confidence among Italian and European exhibitors in Milano Unica’s role in international promotion and market visibility.

Market Context and Export Trends

According to Istat-based data for the first nine months of 2025, processed by the Market Research Office of Confindustria Moda, the Italian textile sector continues to face overall weakness, although the negative trend has eased compared with 2024. Sales declined by 1.5% (versus -8.8% in 2024), while exports also fell 1.5%, compared with -10.7% the previous year.

China and Hong Kong together remain the largest export market, valued at approximately €200 million, despite individual declines of -17.7% for China and -24.7% for Hong Kong. China ranks fourth among individual markets, following France (-3.1%), Germany (-1.3%), and Tunisia (+7.4%). Export growth was recorded in the United States (+5.9%), Portugal (+0.9%), Morocco (+14.4%), Poland (+18%), and Great Britain (+9.2%).

President Canclini also pointed to improved performance during the third quarter of 2024, when sales volumes for cotton and linen fabrics increased, offsetting losses from the previous two years and suggesting a more positive outlook for 2026.

Raw Materials and the Evolving Meaning of Luxury

During the Opening Ceremony, Canclini emphasized the renewed centrality of raw materials within the luxury sector, describing them as a core element of brand credibility and identity. He highlighted the need to rebalance supply chain relationships and restore product expertise in an evolving premium market where quality, materials, and know-how are once again key storytelling elements.

The event featured institutional addresses from Attilio Fontana, President of the Lombardy Region; Claudio Sgaraglia, Prefect of Milan; Maurizio Forte, Central Director for Exports at ICE; and Giovanni Bozzetti, President of Fondazione Fiera Milano, with Giuseppe Valditara, Italian Minister of Education and Merit, joining via videoconference.

A round-table discussion moderated by Nicola Porro focused on the strategic role of education, training, and skills transfer in ensuring continuity and long-term development within the textile and fashion system. The debate explored how innovation, material quality, and technical expertise support stronger connections between brands and increasingly value-conscious consumers.

Industry perspectives were shared by Claudio Marenzi, President of Herno and Montura, who highlighted the risks associated with disconnecting finished products from material quality. Simone Marchetti, European Editorial Director and Editor-in-Chief of Vanity Fair, addressed the cultural and narrative dimensions of authenticity, while Luca Solca, Managing Director at Sanford C. Bernstein Schweiz, examined the broader redefinition of global luxury. Stefania Saviolo, Professor at Bocconi University, presented insights from supply chain research linked to the MUSA project, emphasizing communication, transparency, and training as strategic priorities for the future of Made in Italy.

The Opening Ceremony concluded with remarks from Valentino Valentini, Deputy Minister for Enterprise and Made in Italy, who reaffirmed institutional support for the textile sector and outlined government initiatives aimed at strengthening competitiveness, innovation, and international market access.

The 42nd edition of Milano Unica reinforces its role not only as a commercial marketplace but also as a forum for strategic dialogue on the future of fashion, the importance of raw materials, and the industrial and cultural value of Europe’s premium and luxury textile supply chain.