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Unlocking the Potential of Post-Consumer Textile Waste: A Sustainable Solution through Nonwoven Fabrics

Published: January 15, 2025
Author: TANVI_MUNJAL

Dr Prabhakar Bhat, (Ph.D. IIT Delhi)

Director

Pruthvi TechTex Solutions, Pune

Abstract

The textile industry, one of the most polluting sectors globally, faces significant challenges in managing waste, particularly post-consumer textile waste (POCW). Despite efforts to reduce, reuse, and recycle textiles, POCW remains underutilised and inadequately recycled, with only about 1% of it being processed into low-value products. This paper explores the untapped potential of converting post-consumer textile waste into nonwoven fabrics, a sustainable and cost-effective solution. Nonwovens offer several advantages, including the ability to accommodate varying fibre qualities, reduce dependency on virgin fibres, and support biodegradable alternatives. The article discusses the various stages involved in textile waste recycling, including collection, decontamination, sorting, and fibre processing, with a particular focus on the advantages of nonwoven production. It highlights the economic viability of using recycled fibres, emphasising their lower cost compared to virgin materials while contributing to environmental sustainability. The paper concludes that the mechanical recycling of post-consumer textile waste, particularly through nonwoven fabric production, is not just a feasible option but a necessity for the textile industry in India and globally, offering both economic and environmental benefits.

1. Introduction

Sustainability is a central topic across all sectors today, and the textile industry, one of the most polluting sectors globally, faces increased pressure to act responsibly. The factors contributing to textile pollution are vast, and while they are well-documented, addressing them all goes beyond the scope of this discussion.

To address pollution, the textile industry should focus on increasing the use of biodegradable fibres. However, biodegradable fibres face challenges in both availability and performance, which drives industries to rely more on synthetic fibres. When synthetic fibres are unavoidable, recycling must be a key focus. As global population growth fuels rising demand for textiles, waste generation continues to increase. While initiatives to reduce, reuse, and recycle textiles (the “3 Rs”) have been on the global platform, their impact is limited as long as fashion trends and affordability remain top priorities. Therefore, recycling becomes essential for effective environmental protection.

Mechanical recycling is the most common method for recycling textile waste. Textile waste can be categorised into three main types:

  • Industrial Waste (INDW): Waste from fibre to fabric processing.
  • Pre-Consumer Waste (PECW): Trimmings and cuts from garment manufacturing.
  • Post-Consumer Waste (POCW): Waste generated after the end of the product’s life, discarded garments and clothing.

The first two types of waste—industrial and pre-consumer—are easier to collect and recycle, and these practices are widely established. However, post-consumer waste (POCW), which has the highest volume and complexity, is the most critical and often the most difficult to recycle. Currently, only about 1% of post-consumer textile waste is recycled, mainly through mechanical methods that turn it into low-value products.

However, there is a significant opportunity to convert POCW into nonwoven fabrics, a largely untapped area in textile waste recycling. This paper explores the potential for manufacturing nonwoven products at a commercial scale using post-consumer textile waste.

2. Raw Materials

Globally, textile waste generation is in millions of tons. Textile waste at a global level is 92 mn tons while India alone generates 7.8 million tons of textile waste annually, accounting for approximately 8.5% of global textile waste. Of this, about 51% is post-consumer waste, 41% is pre-consumer waste, and 7% consists of imported post-consumer waste.

India’s recycling efforts are limited to INDW and PECW. Around 100% of industrial textile waste is mechanically recycled into yarn. About 10% of industrial and pre-consumer waste is upcycled, while 25% of pre-consumer waste is downcycled.  However, about 60% of these waste materials are cotton or cotton blends, while synthetic textile waste is 19% (1.5mn tons) which is increasing year after year in India.

One of the major challenges is the lack of awareness about textile waste recycling in India, even within the textile industry. As a result, a significant portion of waste becomes soiled, mixed, or damaged, making recycling even more challenging. Raising awareness about the value of raw materials and the importance of proper waste handling would significantly improve the quality of recycled materials, particularly for industrial and pre-consumer waste. However, post-consumer waste poses a different challenge due to its complexity and contamination.

Although reliable data on post-consumer textile waste is scarce, it is clear that a vast amount of this waste is available for recycling.

3. Raw Material Collection and Logistics

India has yet to establish a comprehensive policy for the import and recycling of post-consumer textile waste. While some waste is allowed to be imported through Kandla port, and sorted there, much more needs to be done to streamline the collection and recycling process. Many countries, including the US and European nations, have established systems for collecting, recycling or exporting used textiles. In India, the reuse of textiles is largely informal, with some NGOs collecting old garments for redistribution to the poor or for use during natural disasters.

To address this, the textile industry could partner with local authorities, NGOs, and waste dealers to create a more organised system for collecting post-consumer waste. By purchasing waste from local scrap dealers or waste collectors, the industry could establish a regular supply of textiles for recycling. Such initiatives could involve working with existing networks of hawkers, much like the traditional systems where old clothes were exchanged for goods, such as utensils. Or plan scheduled collection systems like “Helping Hearts”, a Coimbatore-based NGO that organises monthly collecting drives at corporate offices, gated communities, and educational institutes in addition to its permanent store.  

Once collected, the waste can be sorted and processed either manually or through established systems used for industrial and pre-consumer waste. Expanding this system to include post-consumer waste would significantly boost recycling efforts.

4. End-to-End Hygiene

Post-consumer waste is often contaminated, either during use or while in storage. The risk of contamination is high, as the garments may carry bacteria, germs, or other pathogens from human use, pests, or improper storage. Ensuring hygiene is crucial during the collection, sorting, and recycling processes

All workers handling post-consumer textile waste—ranging from collectors to sorters to factory workers—must be provided with adequate protective gear to prevent health risks. It is also vital to implement sanitation measures at every stage of the recycling process to maintain hygiene and safeguard workers.

5. Recycling Process

a. Decontamination and Cleaning

POCW, as mentioned earlier, can be highly contaminated. Decontamination is critical before any recycling process begins. UV-based decontamination is one possible solution for cleaning high volumes of waste efficiently. However, if UV-based decontamination is followed then workers should be provided with UV protectors. This step is essential for protecting workers and end users from potential health hazards.

This step could be followed by a dedusting process to remove dust and other loosely bound contaminants from the waste. However, if the waste is not heavily soiled and the tearing process is sufficient to achieve the desired level of cleanliness, this step can be skipped.

b. Washing and Drying

Washing textile waste removes contaminants that may have been picked up during use or handling. A centrifugal washing process, with or without detergent, followed by drying (either hot air or open-air drying), is required. Washing not only improves hygiene but also facilitates better fibre separation, leading to more efficient recycling.

c. Trimming and Sorting

Trimming is necessary to remove non-textile attachments such as buttons, zips, beads, labels and all other unwanted items or parts that create difficulty in tearing. After trimming, the waste is sorted according to different categories like fibre type, colour, and fabric type. Sorting can be automated or done manually and is essential for ensuring that the right material is processed in the right way. If blend identification is challenging, devices such as UV ray scanners can be used to detect the presence of synthetic fibres.

d. Cutting

The cutting process reduces the textile waste into smaller pieces that can be further processed into fibres. The cut fabrics shall be homogenised manually, similar to mixing in cotton spinning before feeding to tearing machines. This step is particularly important for homogenising recycled fibres.

e. Tearing

Tearing is the process in which waste materials are broken down into short fibres. The tearing machine line typically consists of a series of feeders and saw-toothed drums, usually numbering 5 or 6. These machines continuously process cut fabrics, progressively tearing them into smaller pieces, then yarn, and ultimately into fibres. The quality of the machine plays a crucial role in determining the quality of the opened fibres, making the proper selection of equipment essential for producing high-quality output.

Key factors that influence fibre quality include fibre length, percentage of short fibres, neps (tangled fibres), fibre strength, hard ends, contamination, fibre blend percentage, and fibre uniformity within the lot. Additionally, metallic contamination often exists in waste when fed into tearing machines. When metal particles come into contact with the saw-tooth wires, they can generate sparks, potentially leading to fires in the machine—one of the most common and hazardous problems in the recycling process.

To mitigate this risk, modern tearing machines are equipped with magnetic detectors that remove metallic particles, helping to ensure the safety of the equipment. While the tearing process may seem straightforward, the selection of appropriate machinery is a critical decision that often requires expert guidance.

Once the waste is converted into fibre, it is ready for further processing into specific products, including nonwovens.

6. Why Nonwovens?

a. Current Practices

Currently, recycled fibres in India are typically converted into yarns, often by mixing with virgin fibres. However, this approach faces several challenges, including fibre strength issues, high nep counts, and blend inconsistencies. These issues can complicate the production of high-quality fabrics.

b. Advantages of Nonwovens

When these fibres are converted into nonwovens, many of the issues typically associated with fibre quality become less significant. Problems like weaker fibres, high nep counts, hard ends, blend variations, and fineness inconsistencies have minimal impact on the final nonwoven fabric. In fact, nonwoven fabrics are often not dyed for a wide range of applications, and even when they are dyed, the importance of shade uniformity is not as critical as in other textile products.

Nonwovens are predominantly made from synthetic fibres due to their engineered properties. However, there is a growing push to replace these synthetic fibres with biodegradable alternatives. The higher cost of biodegradable fibres restricts their use in nonwovens, apart from limitations in certain fibre properties and any means that helps with cost reduction is highly sought after. If the recycled fibres are 100% cotton or viscose, the resulting nonwoven fabric would be biodegradable. Even if a small percentage of synthetic fibres are present in the blend, this would still be a significant improvement over the fully synthetic fibres currently in use.

Even if the recycled fibre is 100% synthetic, using it in nonwovens still contributes to sustainability by reducing landfill waste through recycling. Additionally, the fabrics become cost-competitive. 

Therefore, nonwovens present a significant opportunity for the use of recycled fibres, offering both environmental and economic benefits.

c. The Nonwoven Process

Recycled fibres can be processed into nonwoven fabrics through several methods, including needle punching, chemical bonding, spun lace, and thermal bonding. The choice of method depends on the type of fibre used and the end product requirements. However, selecting the appropriate machine line is far more critical when working with recycled fibres compared to using virgin fibres. Expertise in understanding both the raw material at hand and the final product to be manufactured is essential for making the right choice of machinery. Nonwoven fabrics made from recycled fibres can be used in a wide range of applications, including automotive, medical, and construction industries.

d. Products

The potential for nonwoven products made from recycled fibre is vast. Possible applications include:

  • Mulch mats and other agricultural products
  • Packaging fabrics
  • Garment interlinings
  • Bleached fiber products
  • Lining fabrics
  • Industrial fabrics
  • Medical textiles
  • Cosmetic care products
  • Automobile products
  • Home Furnishings
  • Toys and wadded fabrics
  • And many more

The key to success lies in product identification, innovation, and development. The varied characteristics of raw materials such as their low cost, biodegradability, and potential for a range of product types – make it suitable for numerous applications.

However, these fibres offer the potential to create a wide range of innovative products and advanced composites. There are many opportunities to incorporate recycled fibre into existing nonwoven products, and the possibilities for new applications are virtually limitless. The key is to apply creativity, fine-tune the processes, and develop high-quality products. Innovation, product development, and the exploration of new applications are crucial to achieving commercial success in manufacturing nonwovens from recycled fibres.

7. Economic Viability

Recycled fibres are significantly cheaper than virgin fibres, which makes nonwoven fabric production from recycled textile waste economically attractive. A comparison of costs reveals that the cost of post-consumer textile waste (POCW) is much lower than that of virgin polyester or cotton fibres. This cost advantage, combined with the environmental benefits of recycling, makes nonwoven production from recycled fibres a highly attractive option.

A Brief Look at the Cost Benefits:

  • Cost of POCW (factory landed price) per kg: Rs. 30 to Rs. 40
  • Conversion cost per kg: Rs. 15 to Rs. 25
  • Realization rate: 85%
  • Fiber cost per kg: Rs. 50 to Rs. 70

In comparison, the costs for virgin fibres are significantly higher:

  • Virgin polyester staple fibre: Over Rs. 100 per kg
  • Raw cotton: Rs. 120 to Rs. 150 per kg
  • Coarse grade bleached cotton: Rs. 180 per kg

When raw cotton is opened and cleaned, an additional cost of at least Rs. 30 per kg is incurred, bringing the total cost well above Rs. 150 per kg. If bleached fibre is required for the nonwoven application, the cost of cotton could easily exceed Rs. 180 per kg, and viscose would be in a similar price range.

In contrast, recycled cotton fibre costs approximately 40% of the price of virgin cotton, while recycled polyester is about 50% cheaper.

Since the cost of fibre is the largest expense in nonwoven fabric manufacturing, these savings highlight the cost competitiveness of recycling. A more detailed cost analysis can be conducted for any specific product, should the industry require it.

Moreover, recycling waste supports sustainability efforts, and any additional benefits, such as reductions in carbon footprint or landfill waste, further enhance the overall value of the recycling business.

8. Conclusion

The mechanical recycling of post-consumer textile waste (POCW) is no longer just an option, it is an urgent necessity. Currently, such practices are virtually nonexistent, yet India, as one of the largest consumers of textiles, must prioritise recycling this waste to mitigate environmental pollution. While recycling other types of textile waste is well-established, with fibres being spun into coarse-count yarns, the conversion of POCW into yarns and fabrics presents significant challenges due to the complexity of these fibres.

In contrast, converting these fibres into nonwovens offers a more viable solution, as nonwoven fabrics can easily accommodate the diverse and complex nature of recycled fibres. A wide range of nonwoven products can be manufactured from these fibres, contributing significantly to the sustainability of the textile industry. Moreover, these products are highly cost-competitive, and their commercial success is all but guaranteed.

However, achieving success in this field requires careful identification of the right products, thoughtful product development, and the selection of appropriate machinery. If executed properly, this could transform the concept of “Waste to Wealth,” making a valuable contribution to both the economy and the environment by helping to protect it from the growing textile waste crisis.

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