OEKO-TEX®’s goal is still to promote trust in the leather and textile industries. The OEKO-TEX® Association has revised its testing criteria, limit values, and guidelines for its certifications in light of the most recent scientific research and legislative developments because confidence depends on continually high standards. Important modifications include tougher BPA restrictions under OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, stringent transparency standards for leather supply chains under OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD, and improved organic cotton certification through OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON, which is included in OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN. Verification of biodegradability and commodity chemicals will be part of the extended OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT. After the transition period, the updated standards will go into effect on April 1, 2025.
STANDARD 100: New organic cotton rule and BPA safety
For the OEKO-TEX® community, openness and clear communication are crucial. As of April 1, 2025, claims of “GMO-free” or “organic” cotton will no longer be included in the scope of the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certification. OEKO TEX® ORGANIC COTTON has made it possible to certify cotton as “organic.” Motivated by the commitment to upholding the highest safety and compliance standards, this decision was put into place to improve oversight of certified organic cotton, a sector where fraud is common. As such, OEKO-TEX® seeks to certify only truly reliable organic cotton. Cotton-specific materials are affected by this shift. Wool, hemp, and linen are examples of other organic materials that are unaffected.
The limit value of bisphenol A (BPA) was lowered from 100 to 10 mg/kg by OEKO-TEX® following discussions with internal and external toxicologists. In examinations of fabrics worn directly against the skin, the chemical was frequently discovered. BPA is classified as an endocrine disruptor by endocrinologists and the WHO, meaning that it can alter the hormonal system if it enters the body, even in trace levels.
LEATHER STANDARD: Ahead of Europe’s Deforestation Regulation (EUDR)
A new regulation was adopted by the European Commission in May 2024 as part of the 2030 EU Biodiversity Strategy and the European Green Deal. Transparency in the leather supply chain is one of the biggest problems with the European Deforestation Regulation (EUDR). To make sure they are not contributing to deforestation, businesses need to track the provenance of the leather goods they sell. The EUDR was delayed by one year in November 2024, instead of taking effect at the end of 2024. However, in order to obtain OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD certification, proof of origin (such as delivery notes from the butcher) is needed for hides and leather products derived from cattle and calves.
MADE IN GREEN: Adding ORGANIC COTTON certification option
OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON is recognized as a product certificate by the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN mark, alongside LEATHER STANDARD and STANDARD 100. This enables businesses with certified cotton products to leverage the benefits of both OEKO-TEX® standards: supply chain traceability and verification to ensure safe and responsible production from farm to product.
STeP: Enhanced ZDHC cooperation boosting sustainability in textiles and leather
OEKO-TEX® STeP clients can now take part in the ZDHC Supplier to Zero initiative. Through the optimization of guidelines and solutions, ZDHC and OEKO-TEX® hope to enable the textile, garment, footwear, and leather industries to enhance their environmental effect. Holders of OEKO-TEX® STeP certificates can now take part in the ZDHC Supplier to Zero Program, which will increase the impact. Businesses can declare their participation in the Supplier to Zero Program by uploading their STeP certificate and report to the ZDHC Supplier Platform.
ECO PASSPORT: Expanding scope and highlighting biodegradability
OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT will begin to extend its certification scope to cover commodity and maintenance chemicals in 2025, in addition to chemicals specifically designed for textile and leather applications.
Commodity chemicals, which are manufactured in large quantities and utilized at the beginning of supply chains, will allow for more thorough monitoring across the leather and textile industries. This expansion intends to improve worker safety, prioritize environmental protection, and phase out hazardous compounds earlier. Furthermore, more frequent testing will be done to guarantee the quality of second-life commodity chemicals.
On their certifications, ECO PASSPORT clients will be able to emphasize how biodegradable their chemical goods are. Biodegradability is a crucial component of sustainable leather and textile production, according to OEKO-TEX®, and its influence increases with its early supply chain implementation. The biodegradability of certified surfactants, softeners, or complexing agents must be demonstrated and confirmed by an OEKO-TEX® institute or an authorized third party. The changeover period for current approved products in these categories is one year.
About OEKO-TEX®
For more than 30 years, OEKO-TEX® has offered standardized solutions that companies in the textile and leather industry can use to transparently and sustainably optimize their manufacturing processes. Based on scientific principles, OEKO-TEX® contributes to bringing high-quality, safe and sustainable products to
the market. 35,000 manufacturers, brands and trading companies, in more than 100 countries are currently working with OEKO-TEX®. At the same time, millions of consumers around the world use the OEKO-TEX® labels as a guide for their responsible purchasing decisions. Products and suppliers certified by OEKO-TEX® can be found in the online OEKO-TEX® buying guide
at https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/buying-guide. Follow OEKO-TEX® on Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn and WeChat.
