Streamlining New Sample Development in Export Houses: A Case Study on Spanish Buyers

Priyanshi Rakesh Maurya, Post Graduate Academic Scholar, Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India, Daman Campus.

Dr. Rahul Kushwaha, Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India, Daman Campus.

Abstract

This study focuses on improving export houses’ sample development procedures through examination of Fifty Factory as a business case. The business procedure starts when buyers share inquiries that include mood boards and material selections and seasonal guidelines. The design team joins forces with merchandising personnel to use the received information for acquiring pattern-making materials which leads to initial clothing sample production. The successful development of samples depends on overcoming key obstacles which include fabric failure, incorrect concept choices, pricing problems and quality problems. The manufacturer develops an alternative design through error correction while satisfying every requirement needed by buyers. Bulk manufacturing orders cannot be placed by the buyer until they accept the modified sample version. The research highlights how excellent buyer relations combined with organized planning and departmental cooperation creates successful reductions in sample rejections and development times that boost Spanish international buyer relationships.

Key words: Sample Development, Export Houses, Spanish Buyers, Sample Rejections, Creative Group

Introduction

Sample development activities in the global apparel sector are crucial for obtaining export orders because they help maintain long-term business relations with buyers. The export houses under Creative Group partner with Fifty Factory Spanish buyers through a streamlined sample development process which launches from the buyer inquiry and mood board provision. The mood board presents colours together with fabric types along with design inspirations and silhouettes, so it guides the progression of new garment samples.

A review of the mood board allows merchandisers and the design team to continue toward fabric procurement and pattern development before starting the initial sample production. Spanish buyers conduct their final examination by assessing both the fit and finishing standards along with material quality and compatibility standards. The production of new garment samples sometimes fails due to fabric misinterpretations as well as incorrect measurements and inappropriate fabric choices and budget-related issues. The manufacturing process extends while project expenses rise because of this delay which damages customer trust along with decreasing bulk order availability.

Quality inspection of returned samples forces export houses to implement customer suggestions on alternative garments until reaching market compliance. Application of the revision process includes repairs to fabric selection and enhancements of stitching quality standards and product sizing measurements together with improvements to design elements. Buyer approval of the sample follows to facilitate production that starts with large volume orders.

The full sample development process takes an extensive period while remaining vulnerable to operational performances that diminish from poor management practices. The position of export houses in international clothing markets will improve alongside reduced rejection numbers and waste amounts when they enhance their coordination methods and execution clarity.

Objectives

• The research investigates the export house SS26sample creation specifically for Spanish buyer.
• Analysis of buyer creation boards and website tendencies will provide information about designs and fabric specifications and colour selection preferences.
• The research will examine major obstacles with their causes which lead to sample rejection in the development phase.

Literature Review

The collaboration between buyers and suppliers faces high barriers due to communication obstacles prevalent in international supply networks. According to Christopher et al. (2004) product development becomes more efficient and misalignment decreases when companies integrate information sharing during their development cycle. Indian export manufacturing encounters delays in decision-making followed by approval processes because it lacks a digital collaborative platform.

Spain’s leading fashion sector consisting of Zara and Mango and Springfield controls its system through rapid design modifications and limited product spans and fast customer engagement (Tokatli, 2008). The competitive market needs exporters to show both speed and precision in their operations. Export houses must adopt quick-turn models that create substantial sampling team pressure to deliver quick results at low costs and high creative levels.

The situation worsens as fabric sourcing and supplier nomination both occur beyond the desired margin of lead time according to Gereffi & Frederick (2010). Sample rejection creates substantial expense losses as a major effect in supply chain management. The research by Bruce and Daly (2006) demonstrates that Spanish retailers need highly precise and high-quality sample products delivered quickly. The research demonstrates that conventional sampling techniques fail to fulfil modern demands hence calling for new methods at export warehouses.

Fast fashion retailers establish value through their upgraded design methods combined with quick restocking systems according to Cachon and Swinney (2011). Export houses that work with Spanish buyers need to transform their sample processes into dynamic operations which match the regular updates in fashion trends.

Shen (2014) establishes that today’s fashion supply chain needs eco-friendly materials and ethical practices to be illustrated through the sampling process which many buyers now request explicitly. Companies must develop compliance systems and traceable features for their sample development process to stay competitive.

The European textile and clothing industry transforms its operations to meet worldwide market requirements according to Taplin (2006). The ability of countries and firms to achieve quick design translation and sample preparation especially for EU markets such as Spain enables them to build enduring buyer relationships.

Using Zara as their focal point Ferdows, Lewis and Machuca (2004) examine the company’s “rapid-fire” fulfilment system which enables the efficient operation between design stages and sampling procedures and manufacturing stages. Export houses handling Spanish buyers must establish similar urgent response protocols because Spanish buyers demand such methods.

Shen (2014) establishes that today’s fashion supply chain needs eco-friendly materials and ethical practices to be illustrated through the sampling process which many buyers now request explicitly. Companies must develop compliance systems and traceable features for their sample development process to stay competitive.The European textile and clothing industry transforms its operations to meet worldwide market requirements according to Taplin (2006). The ability of countries and firms to achieve quick design translation and sample preparation especially for EU markets such as Spain enables them to build enduring buyer relationships.

According to Bhardwaj and Fairhurst (2010) showed that fast fashion retailers deeply depend on their suppliers to rapidly develop new designs. The research demonstrated that product development success depends strongly on both internal coordination between company departments and real-time cooperation with suppliers. To serve Spanish fashion retailers export houses must develop platforms which ensure continuous updates and virtual samples and fast feedback methods to deal with recurring design adjustments alongside shipping timelines.

Methodology

The research follows a qualitative method to study Spanish buyers’ sample (SS26) development process at Creative Group with the aim of enhancing this process. The research team concentrated on studying the main challenges related to sample development as well as testing rejection drivers to suggest improvement solutions.

36 new garment samples (SS26) were developed within five categories which included dresses, tops, blouses, shorts and tunics as part of the research project. The researcher developed these samples by using Buyer mood boards together with seasonal directions and sent them to Spanish buyer (Fifty Factory) for assessment and evaluation.

The research data originated from two primary sources.

• The Buyer Moodboards served to identify preferred seasonal themes along with preferred colours and styles and fabric choices of the buyer.
• Research of the buyer’s website provided insights into fashionable patterns as well as famous designs together with prominent clothing items.

Data collection was conducted through a combination of observational study and informal interactions with key personnel involved in the sampling process. This included direct communication and discussions with the designers, merchandising team, pattern makers, and the sampling head.

Processes Of Sampling Development

1. Inquiry
2. Received Mood board from buyer
3. Buyer website research
4. Create own mood board
5. Trims /Fabric sourcing
6. Patten making
7. Cutting / stitching / finishing
8. Quality checking
9. Packing and sent to the buyer
10. Costing
11. File and PPT making for company record purpose

Analysis of Fifty Factory’s Women’s Category (Spanish Buyer)

This chain of outlet shops sells the Milano brand and the company’s other brands (Women’secret, Springfield, Cortefiel, and Pedro del Hierro) along with third-party brands sold on the online channel and at selected shops.

It has its own brand, Milano, which is brimming with its own DNA with urban fit, trendy and modern garments. Its Smart shopping model allows customers to experience an omni-channel shopping experience that is unique in the outlet sector.The brand is present at 69 points of sale in 6 countries. It has started in on a programme of expansion and has opened its first shops in Croatia and Mexico.

1. Product Strategy – Basics with Longevity: Fifty Factory’s women’s section reveals a product strategy centered around essential wardrobe staples rather than trend-driven items. The brand curates’ collections featuring classic silhouettes such as straight-leg trousers, belted coats, puffer jackets, and crew-neck sweaters. This indicates a focus on durability and cross-seasonal appeal, which is vital for outlet segments where unsold inventory can stay on racks longer than in mainline stores.
2. Colour Palette – Neutral and Seasonally Soft: The colour story across the women’s collection sticks to neutral bases—beige, taupe, navy, and off-white—supplemented by seasonal muted tones like blush pink, soft blue, and olive. This restrained palette caters to a wide demographic and aligns with the brand’s functional, versatile positioning.
3. Fabric Choices – Comfort and Practicality: Most products appear to use cotton blends, acrylic knits, and lightweight polyesters, indicating an emphasis on ease of care, affordability, and comfort. These materials also help maintain competitive price points, a key feature of outlet merchandising.
4. Garment Construction – Minimalist with Function: Designs across tops, outerwear, and dresses display a minimalist approach with clean lines, functional elements (like pockets or belts), and subtle shaping. The brand avoids heavy embellishments or overly complex cuts.
5. Customer Demographic Insight: The product offering suggests that Fifty Factory targets who value practical, stylish, and budget-conscious fashion. The brand’s outlet positioning also appeals to middle-income shoppers who want branded clothing at discounted rates.

Moodboard

SS’26 from Fifty Factory presents an upcoming collection that merges rural elements with refined handmade touches and luxurious organic materials in its moodboard. Nature, summer vibes and breathability define this collection which uses cotton and viscose in tones including warm neutrals, sage green, soft beige and cobalt blue and terracotta accents.

The collection’s casual ready-to-wear designs like wrap dresses and kaftans and shorts feature delicate embroidery as well as schiffli work and handmade embellishments for added depth. The collection perfects the essence of modern feminine style through its calming and grounded character which caters to the contemporary woman seeking stylish comfort within sustainable fashion.

Photographic Representations Of Developed Apparel

Data Analysis

Quantitative Breakdown of Development

Samples by Category

Table 1: Showing total samples in (%)

Observations

• Dresses dominate the sample, accounting for almost half (44.4%) of the total.
• Tops and blouses follow with 19.4% and 13.9% respectively — significant but far less than dresses.
• Shorts, tunics, bottoms, and Kaftans make up smaller portions of the sample, with bottom and Kaftan being the least represented (only 1 each).

ORDER ANALYSIS SUMMARY

Table 2: Showing total order summary in (%)

Observations:

• Nearly 44.44% of the samples were rejected, which is significantly high.

• Only 55.56% of samples were accepted.

REJECTION REASON BREAKDOWN

Table 3: Showing rejection reason breakdown in (%)

Observations:

• More than half of the rejected samples were due to cost mismatches.
• Some samples did not align with the buyer’s aesthetic expectations or had over-designing beyond the brief.

Findings & Suggestions

• High rejection rate (44.44%) of 36 developed samples.
• Four main factors caused the high rejection rate (44.44%) of 36 developed samples: costing mismatches coupled with internal miscommunication and category mismatches and excessive design detailing.
• Spanish buyers preferred minimalist clothes, but the design team pursued Indian fashion design principles that resulted in unsuccessful productivity.
• The absence of pre-sample coordination between merchandisers and pattern makers together with designers resulted in product inconsistency.
• Lack of interdepartmental collaboration coupled with unclear communication and a dysfunctional corrective system resulted in prolonged development periods with wastage of resources.

Suggestions

• A two-stage sampling method should be introduced to enable corrections throughout the process.
• Specific budget needs to be designated along with sample revision procedures that include allocated time spans.
• Merchandisers and design/pattern teams should meet before sample evaluation to reach alignment.
• Implement a Digital Feedback Management System (DFMS) using annotated visuals, buyer checklists, and version logs.

Conclusion

The project aimed to enhance export house Creative Group’s process of developing new SS26 samples suitable for Spanish buyer. The research revealed that a high number of prepared samples were being rejected. The principal causes for rejection included those costs exceeded mark-ups alongside design mismatches or internal communication breakdowns within the company. Internal conflict between production teams and design departments prevented important alignment between their work. Design team members would create items that seemed fashionable in India yet failed to meet the Spanish customer’s preference for basic designs. Feedback received from the buyer tended to be unclear and unspecific making problem resolution time-consuming.

Companies should establish better feedback methods with their buyers through digital resources including online forms or image with annotation features according to the study. According to the research findings businesses need to allocate dedicated funds to modify their sample products. The team should maintain proactive readiness for all changes that might arise. All teams including merchandisers, designers and pattern makers should convene in one meeting prior to confirming a final sample design. The regular check-up system helps eliminate misunderstandings which guarantees proper sample creation during the initial effort.

These minimum yet vital process improvements create better results for time management and lower rejection rates therefore leading to improved efficiency. This strategy will allow export organizations to establish deeper connections and increased trust with international clients such as Fifty Factory. Improved relationships with international buyers including Fifty Factory will result in larger bulk orders leading to long-term business success.

References

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Tokatli, N. (2008). Global Sourcing: Insights from the Global Clothing Industry—The Case of Zara, a Fast Fashion Retailer. Journal of Economic Geography, 8(1), 21–38.

Gereffi, G., & Frederick, S. (2010). The Global Apparel Value Chain, Trade and the Crisis: Challenges and Opportunities for Developing Countries. World Bank Policy Research Working Paper No. 5281.

Bruce, M., & Daly, L. (2006). Buyer behaviour for fast fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 10(3), 329-344.

Cachon, G. P., & Swinney, R. (2011). The value of fast fashion: Quick response, enhanced design, and strategic consumer behavior. Management science, 57(4), 778-795.

Shen, B. (2014). Sustainable fashion supply chain: Lessons from H&M. Sustainability, 6(9), 6236-6249.

Taplin, I. M. (2006). Restructuring and reconfiguration: The EU textile and clothing industry adapts to change. European Business Review, 18(3), 172-186.

Ferdows, K., Lewis, M. A., & Machuca, J. A. (2004). Rapid-fire fulfillment. Harvard business review, 82(11), 104-117.

Bhardwaj, V., & Fairhurst, A. (2010). Fast fashion: response to changes in the fashion industry. The international review of retail, distribution and consumer research, 20(1), 165-173.