Harsh Jindal, Academic Scholar, Department of Textile Design, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Daman Campus.

Dr Pravin P Chavan, Assistant Professor, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Govt Of India

Introduction

Vegan leather, also known as artificial or eco-friendly leather, offers a sustainable and ethical substitute for traditional leather derived from animal hides. Unlike conventional leather, which depends on animal farming—a major contributor to deforestation, greenhouse gas emissions, and environmental degradation—vegan leather is manufactured without animal components. Instead, it leverages innovative materials such as bacterial cellulose from SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast), agricultural byproducts, and biopolymers like polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA), which is extracted from bacteria. Studies have highlighted the environmental benefits of such alternatives, including their biodegradability, reduced toxicity, and smaller carbon footprint, contributing to their growing popularity in sustainable practices [Akhter et al., 2024; Radadiya et al., 2022; Saha et al., 2020].

The development of vegan leather aligns with the increasing global demand for sustainable and ethical practices in the leather industry. With a shift in consumer awareness towards environmentally responsible choices, there is a notable rise in the exploration of materials that minimize environmental harm. For example, fruit leather has emerged as a promising eco-friendly option, utilizing agricultural byproducts like mango peels, apple cores, and pineapple leaves to create durable, pliable material through sustainable processes. These innovations not only address the ethical concerns surrounding the use of animal-derived products but also provide viable alternatives that mitigate the environmental impact of the traditional leather industry [Minh & Ngan, 2021; "Sustainable Eco-Friendly Vegan Bio leather", 2022].

Fig 1. Aloe vera and its parts

Amid these advancements, aloe vera has garnered attention for its potential role in vegan leather production. Aloe vera, a succulent plant widely known for its applications in alternative medicine, offers a range of promising attributes that could contribute to eco-friendly material development. Of the approximately 420 Aloe species, Aloe Barbadensis Miller is the most utilized, celebrated for its abundance of bioactive compounds. These include over 75 active ingredients such as enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals, which have established its utility in health, wellness, and skincare. Research has further demonstrated its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, positioning aloe vera as a versatile component in various industries.

In the context of vegan leather, aloe vera’s gel and fibrous content could be utilized to create a sustainable composite material when combined with additives like starch, binders, and biodegradable polymers. The plant’s inherent strength and flexibility can be leveraged to produce durable, biodegradable leather alternatives with

desirable qualities like softness, elasticity, and resilience. By utilizing aloe vera, which is readily cultivable and requires minimal resources to grow, the production of plant-based leather could also address issues of resource efficiency and waste reduction.

The Aloe vera leaf is super rich in Vitamin C, which has been reported to have antioxidant properties. Aloe vera leaf skin is a lignocellulosic biomass that is composed out of 57.72% α-cellulose, 16.39% hemicellulose and 13.73% lignin. [Cheng et al., 2014]

As the leather industry continues its transition toward sustainable practices, aloe vera-based leather exemplifies the potential for integrating natural, renewable resources into material innovation. These advancements hold the promise of revolutionizing the industry by providing an ethical, eco-friendly, and economically viable solution, paving the way for a more sustainable future. By exploring the untapped potential of aloe vera and similar natural resources, the pursuit of sustainability can extend beyond mere alternatives, evolving into a comprehensive approach to environmental responsibility and ethical production.

Materials:

1. Aloe vera – Home Garden in Delhi
2. Lemon - Home Garden in Silvassa, Daman
3. Paper – Waste Paper from NIFT Daman Campus
4. Cotton fabric –Fabric Store in Daman
5. Butter Paper – Stationary shop in Daman

Equipment:

1. Hot Air Oven – TCS industries (230 volts, 16 AMPS)
2. Induction – Prestige (1600 watt)
3. Hand Blender – Orpat (250-watt, 18000 rpm)
4. Steel Tray
5. Spoon
6. Glass Rod
7. Beaker
8. Bowls

Chemicals:

1. Binder – Fine Chem Solution (Binding Agent)
2. Glucose – Fine Chem Solution (Mild Binder and Plasticizer)
3. Sodium Chloride – Fine Chem Solution (Mild Binding Agent)
4. Corn Flour – Grocery Store in Daman (Binder)
5. Corn Starch - Grocery Store in Daman (Binder)
6. Tamarind Seed Powder - Grocery Store in Daman (Binder)
7. Glycerin - Fine Chem Solution (Release Agent)
8. Citric Acid – Lemon (Cross-linking Agent)

Preparation of the materials:

A total of six samples were prepared during this study. Aloe vera, sourced from a home garden in Delhi, was thoroughly washed to eliminate dust and foreign particles before being sliced and peeled to separate the gel from the skin. Similarly, limes from a home garden in Silvassa were carefully washed to remove any impurities. Waste paper was soaked in lukewarm water to create a pulp. A cotton fabric measuring approximately 4" by 7" was scoured using an herbal soap solution to ensure cleanliness. Additional materials, including cotton, corn flour, and the necessary chemicals, were prepared in advance to facilitate the subsequent steps.

1. Aloe Vera (S1)

100 gm Aloe vera along with its skin was meticulously crushed using a pestle and mortar to create a smooth puree, which served as the base material. A binding agent (10gm) was then incorporated to stabilize and bind potential fibers within the puree. The mixture was subsequently strained twice for refinement: first, through a mulmul cotton fabric, and then using a double-meshed strainer. A clean steel tray was prepared, and the refined puree was evenly poured onto it for the drying process. The tray was placed in a hot air-drying oven (manufactured by TCS Industries) preheated to 50°C. The puree was left to dry in the oven for a duration of 12 hours, ensuring optimal results.

Fig. 2. Flow Process of the first formulation

This formulation yielded a gel-like substance after drying, characterized by its stickiness and dark brown color.

2. Aloe Vera & Corn Flour (S2)

Aloe vera gel (100 g), carefully extracted by removing the outer skin, was blended into a smooth puree using a 250-watt hand blender (manufactured by Orpat) operating at 18,000 RPM. To the puree, 2 g of glucose and 5 g of corn flour were added, and the mixture was thoroughly blended for an additional 5–10 minutes to achieve uniform consistency. A steel tray was prepared by evenly coating its surface with mustard oil, sourced from a local grocery store in Daman. The prepared puree was then poured onto the oiled tray and placed on an induction cooktop (manufactured by Prestige) set to a temperature of 100°C. The mixture was heated for 30 minutes to achieve the desired result.

Fig. 3. Flow Process of second formulation

3. Aloe Vera & Cotton (S3)

Aloe vera gel (100 g), extracted by carefully removing the outer skin, was blended into a smooth puree using a 250-watt hand blender (Orpat) operating at 18,000 RPM. To this puree, 10 g of corn starch, 2 g of sodium chloride and 2 ml of lime juice were added, and the mixture was blended further for 5–10 minutes to achieve a uniform consistency. Cotton fibers were immersed in the prepared mixture and allowed to soak for 30 minutes to ensure optimal absorption. A temporary tray was constructed by folding the edges of butter paper, and the cotton-infused mixture was poured into this tray. The setup was placed in an oven (manufactured by TCS Industries) set to 50°C and left to dry for 16 hours.

Fig. 4. Flow Process of third formulation

This formulation produced a leather-like material that was flexible and easily bendable when manipulated.

4. Aloe Vera Skin & Tamarind Seed Powder (S4)

Aloe vera skin (100 g) was thoroughly blended using a 250-watt hand blender (Orpat) operating at 18,000 RPM. To achieve the desired consistency, 20 ml of water was gradually added. Subsequently, 10 g of tamarind seed powder, 2 g of sodium chloride and 2 ml of lime juice were incorporated, and the mixture was blended for an additional 5–10 minutes to ensure uniformity. The prepared puree was then cooked for 3-5 minutes on an induction (manufactured by prestige, 1600 watt) till it got a little thicker than before. A temporary tray was crafted by folding the edges of butter paper, and the prepared puree was carefully poured into it. The setup was then placed in an oven (manufactured by TCS Industries) preheated to 50°C and allowed to dry for 16 hours.

Fig. 5. Flow Process of the fourth formulation

 5. Aloe Vera Skin & Paper (S5)

Aloe vera skin (100 g) was thoroughly blended using a 250-watt hand blender (Orpat) operating at 18,000 RPM. To achieve the desired consistency, 20 ml of water was gradually added. The mixture was then enhanced with 10 g of tamarind seed powder, 2 g of sodium chloride, 2 ml of lime juice, and 2 ml of binder, and blended further for 5–10 minutes to ensure a smooth and uniform consistency. The prepared puree was then cooked for 3-5 minutes on an induction (manufactured by prestige, 1600 watt) till it got a little thicker than before. Paper that had been soaked overnight was pureed thoroughly, with excess water hand-squeezed to leave it slightly damp. A total of 10 g of this paper pulp was incorporated into the mixture and blended again. A temporary tray was prepared by folding the edges of butter paper, which was evenly coated with glycerin. The prepared puree was carefully poured into the tray and placed in an oven (manufactured by TCS Industries) preheated to 50°C, where it was dried for 16 hours.

Fig. 6. Flow Process of the fifth formulation

This formulation produced a leather-like material that was easy to manipulate. However, the main drawback was that the paper pulp did not blend well with the puree, resulting in uneven distribution within the sample.

6. Aloe Vera Skin, Paper & Cotton Fabric (S6)

Aloe vera skin (100 g) was blended thoroughly using a 250-watt hand blender (Orpat) operating at 18,000 RPM. To achieve the desired consistency, 20 ml of water was gradually added during blending. The mixture was enriched with 10 g of tamarind seed powder, 2 g of sodium chloride, 2 ml of lime juice, and 2 ml of binder, then blended for an additional 5–10 minutes to ensure a smooth, uniform texture. The prepared puree was then cooked for 3-5 minutes on an induction (manufactured by prestige, 1600 watt) till it got a little thicker than before. Paper soaked overnight was pureed thoroughly, and excess water was hand-squeezed to retain slight dampness. A total of 10 g of this prepared paper pulp was incorporated into the mixture and blended again. A scoured cotton fabric weighing 5 g with a 150 GSM specification was immersed in the puree mixture to ensure proper absorption. A temporary tray was constructed by folding butter paper edges and evenly coating the surface with glycerin. The fabric, now covered with the puree mixture, was placed onto the prepared tray and dried in an oven (manufactured by TCS Industries) preheated to 50°C for 16 hours.

Fig. 7. Flow Process of the sixth formulation

This formulation produced a rigid material that could be manipulated with some effort. However, the paper pulp did not integrate properly with the puree, leading to uneven distribution throughout the sample.

Results & Discussions:

1. Chemical Analysis: Chemical Analysis is the process of identifying, quantifying, and understanding the chemical composition and structure of a It involves using scientific techniques and methods to determine the presence and concentration of specific elements, compounds, or functional groups in a sample.
2. Moisture Content refers to the amount of water present in a material or substance, expressed as a percentage of its total weight. It is an important parameter as it determines the dampness of a substance, which can influence the processing and quality.

Moisture Content has been calculated using the following formula, Moisture % = Weight of Water Loss × 100 / Initial Weight of Sample

Where:

Weight of Water Loss = Initial weight of the sample - Final weight of the sample (after drying)

Initial Weight of Sample is the weight of the sample before drying.

Where:

Weight is in grams (gm)

W1= Initial Weight

W2= Weight of the sample after drying

M%= Moisture Percentage

The prepared samples were placed in a hot air oven at 60 degrees Celsius for 2 hours. Afterward, they were immediately weighed and then left undisturbed for 48 hours before being weighed again. Sample 6 was chosen as the final sample, showing a 2.61% increase in moisture content over the 48-hour period.

Conclusion:

Several formulations emphasize the remarkable potential of aloe vera as a core ingredient in developing vegan leather. Renowned for its numerous medicinal benefits, aloe vera presents a sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to traditional leather. The resulting material is fully biodegradable, making it an environmentally safe choice. With its low carbon footprint, it stands out as a preferable option to materials that contribute to long-term ecological damage. Furthermore, this innovation aligns seamlessly with the principles of a circular economy by enhancing resource efficiency, minimizing waste, and promoting environmental sustainability.

This study paves the way for numerous innovative applications and opportunities. It not only highlights the groundbreaking use of aloe vera in material development but also explores its untapped potential for creating sustainable substitutes for conventional leather. By demonstrating the versatility of aloe vera-based composites, the research broadens the scope for utilizing natural resources in novel ways. The findings serve as a solid foundation for further advancements in plant-based sustainable materials, fostering a greener approach to material science and contributing to the fashion industry’s shift toward circularity and environmental responsibility.