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CLOTHING FROM LENPUR FIBRES

Published: July 20, 2020
Author: TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

Eco-friendly Fibres  are an alternative to synthetic, petroleum-derived fibers such as nylon, polyester, and acrylic, and are grown without the use of harmful chemicals and pesticides. Synthetic fibers make up about 60% of all textiles used in the world, and pesticide-grown, water-intensive cotton makes up about 30% of all textiles, leaving only 10% for all other fibers.

Synthetic fibers cause microplastic pollution when the garment is washed and chemicals and pesticides used in fabric production end up seeping into our ground and drinking waters, polluting all forms of life, or can even be absorbed through the skin while wearing them. But even if they are grown without harmful substances, some fabrics can still cause pollution during processing through textile chemicals like dyes, chlorine gas, acetic acid fumes, kerosene, diazotisation fumes, and acid fumes. When chemical processing is unavoidable, the key for environmental friendliness is proper waste disposal.

Have you been weighing eco-friendly textile options to source for your collection? If so, you may want to check out this interesting alternative to cotton: Lenpur.

Although this fabric is not exactly new on the scene of textile sourcing, it is not quite as well known other textiles available. Because of this, it can add a unique, special touch to a collection.

PRODUCTION OF LENPUR FIBRES

Lenpur is a novel textile fibre from a renewable resource: cellulose carefully selected from the branches of special trees. The remarkable properties of wood provide textile materials made from Lenpur with extraordinary properties. Lenpur is truly the best “vegetable fibre produced by man”.

Lenpur fibers and yarns certainly deserve to be called “ecological” for a number of reasons. The wood it is made from is cultivated: it is not based on a cycle of unnatural deforestation. Furthermore, only certain parts of the tress are chosen and selected. Harvesting coincides with normal pruning. This is what makes this fibre valuable and unique.
Wood pulp yarn made from Lenpur may be promoted as totally natural thanks to the production method, even if these fibres fall in the artificial fibre industrial product sector.

Lenpur is a textile that is cellulose –based.The fibre is derived from the Bark and branches of White Pine Trees.

While a fabric made from the wood of a tree might seem counter-productive to sustainable fashion, no forests were harmed in the making of this textile. Materials to produce the fiber are gathered through regular pruning (only the bark and branches are harvested, the rest of the tree is left alive to continue to grow). Also, the company that created Lenpur uses only trees that were grown specifically for fabric production.

Lenpur is a wood-pulp fibre obtained from white Canadian pines. The trees are specifically cultivated for this purpose and the selection grants a cellulose content not crystallized yet. The timber is harvested in a way that is in harmony with nature. The wood gives the fabrics extraordinary properties.
The yarns produced with this fibre, in the ring cotton system, are smooth, making them able to machine when used in knit fabrics. A fabric composed of these fibres has a high absorption rate and a gradual release of humidity, is anti –odour and natural anti –static.
Suitable for the production of comfortable fabrics, performing and able to express a high fashion style.

Lenpur fibre and yarn certainly deserve to be called “eco-friendly” for a number of reasons. The wood it is made from is cultivated: it is not based on a cycle of unnatural deforestation. Furthermore, only certain parts of the tree are chosen and selected. Harvesting coincides with normal pruning. This is what makes this fibre valuable and unique.

Lenpur viscose is based on cellulose that comes exclusively from tree-trimmings, usually that of white pine trees (only the bark and branches are harvested, the rest of the tree is left alive to continue to grow).

Like with Lyocell/Tencel , the cellulose is produced without chemical additives and the trees are sustainably cultivated.

In order to obtaine a turely homogenous fibre blend, good carding conditions must be maintained during processing as Lenpur® fibers have different cross-sections (0.7 dtx and 1.9 dtx). Machine settings (and twisting delta) must be similar to those used for medium-staple length combed cotton. We recommend a maximum spinning speed of 13,000 rpm. Count range: Ne 6 – Ne 70.

Ring-spun yarns produced with Lenpur are extremely smooth, making them perfect for the manufacture of knit fabrics with an attractive and even surface.

PROPERTIES  OF LENPUR FIBRES

The fibres retain the wood’s natural properties. The characteristics of Lenpur (US Patent 005599784) are owed to the specific types of timber used for its production, independent of the process used for its manufacture. The main differences in Lenpur compared to other cellulose fibres is its softness, its absorption capacity, its ability to release dampness (as a yarn or fabric), its deodorant properties, and its adsorption characteristics (due to its morphology). When mixed with other fibres, Lenpur is in “mechanical synergy” with them.

The Hand of Lenpur fabric itself is of high quality , making it a more luxurious alternative to cotton.

– The feel is “akin to a fine rayon, but with a cottony hand.”

– It is self-mercerizing, meaning it takes dye exceptionally well without any kind of preparation or treatment (it has a 10-20% higher color yield than synthetic fibers).

– Dye streaking is minimized with Lenpur, and it softens up even more after being colored.

It also has several functional aspects that make it appropriate not only for couture garments but for quality sportswear as well. It has excellent absorbency, and dries very quickly. It also contains deodorant properties, making it wearable for any level of activity.

Additionally, Lenpur blends well with other fibers. Rowan’s Lenpur linen has been a popular knitting yarn in the past, as it has a lovely drape and hand that makes it perfect for summer garments.

  • Lenpur is an ultra-pure cellulose fibre (99.8% pure) and biodegradable.
  • It is exceptionally soft and feels similar to cashmere.

A biodegradable fabric made from white pine tree clippings. Dubbed the “vegetable cashmere” it keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Lenpur fibers are self-mercerizing ( untreated Lenpur with reactive dye ). In all alkaline environments, the fibers swell significantly, increasing shine and softness. This unique self-mercerizing property provides materials with superior dye affinity and excellent luster. Thanks to this property, fabrics made from Lenpur yarns gain extra softness from what is already a soft surface. The cold and warm wash resistance of this fiber is better than that of common artificial cellulose fibres. Its excellent dye affinity reduces streaking to a minimum. Lenpur has excellent dyeability with all cellulosic dyes. Lenpur can be dyed by itself or in blends with other fibres, as a fibre, yarn or fabric, using any any conventional dyeing machine. Compared to artificial fibres dyed under the same conditions, Lenpur has a 10 to 20% higher colour yield when dyed with direct and reactive dyes.

USES OF  LENPUR FIBRES

  • Lenpur is used in clothing, underwear, socks, and home accessories, and is said to have thermo-regulatory, odor-eliminating, and absorbent properties.

Following are the uses

Light and medium knitwear

Underwear

Orthogonal fabrics

Socks

Technical fabrics

Furniture fabrics

Seamless garments

Dr.N.N. MAHAPATRA

C.Col  FSDC ( UK),CText FTI ( Manchester ), FRSC  ( UK ),FAIC(USA)

Business Head(Dyes)

SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.

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