Dr.N.N. MAHAPATRA
C.Col FSDC ( UK),CText FTI ( Manchester ), FRSC ( UK ),FAIC(USA)
Business Head(Dyes)
SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD.
301-302, 3rd Floor, Atlanta Centre, Near Udyog Bhawan,
Sonawala Road, Goregaon (E), Mumbai – 400 063, India.
Tel.: + 91 22 4270 2525 Mob.:8657409150
Mail: [email protected] find us @ www.shreepushkar.com
The 20th century heralded new understanding in chemistry, which led to a vast array of polymers, dyestuffs, chemicals and finishes. New Fibres were born, new color expectations created. Technologies leapt ahead in all areas of manufacturing and processing. The global consumption of cotton increased, but the market share of cotton decreased. The change reflects cottons strengths and also the weaknesses. By the start of 21st century, cotton was just one of many fibres available. Everyone has heard about Polyester, Polyproplene , Nylon , Acrylic ,Lycra , Tencel, Kevlar and microfibers. But have you heard of Cool max, Xstatic, PCM s, Thermocules, Lycrapower , Tyvek , Supplex or Nanosheres ? these are products that are currently on the market ,or on the way.
Coolmax was one of the first performance fabrics launched by DuPont in 1986. It is a hollow polyester fibre with specialized finish that promotes moisture management away from the body. According to the manufacturers .Coolmax makes sweat a non-issue. The new version Coolmax Alta, offers fabrics with a cottony soft handle, superior moisture management , a semi-matte luster and low –pill properties .
Coolmax is a registered trademark of the manufacturer , INVISTA Ltd ( a business unit of Du Pont .
Properties of Coolmax fibre – Coolmax is the original performance fabric that has been helping push harder and longer but is now being discovered for the cool comfort it brings to everyday apparel. Coolmax has proven physiological benefits that , depending on people need , can be applied to or found in a whole new range of clothing styles – from moderate and high – intensity performance apparel to everyday casual wear .
So consumers get the level of performance they need to stay cool and comfortable in any situation .
Consumers looking for casual , comfortable garments will be happy with the way coolmax keeps them cool and confident . the soft , lightweight and breathable fabric gives clothes a natural feel , with an added touch of performance that keeps them comfortable. Consumers who demand enhanced performance from their apparel for their active lifestyles will find that coolmax keeps them cooler than other fabrics .Coolmax moves perspiration away from the body to the fabrics outer surface , where it can evaporate quickly .This thermo regularity effect helps consumers stay drier and more comfortable .
Extreme atheletes know what to look for in a performance fabric and except nothing less than the best , which is why they value the physiological benefits coolmax provides. Coolmax has proven to reduce skin temperature , lower heart rates during exercise and maintain hydration , while offering excellent moisture management properties .
Coolmax is the brand name of a series of fabrics designed to wick moisture away from the skin. The fabrics employ specially – engineered polyester fibres to improve “ breathability “ compared to natural fibres like cotton .
Coolmax R is made of patented Invista fibre that contains four perspiration tunnels . It can repel the moisture from skin to fabric surface efficiently as perspiration starts which has very excellent air permeability . clothes are easy to wash and dry , not shrink, change shapes , keep bad odors or incur fungus . mostly used for T-shirts , vests , sportswear , socks , tight golf shirts , underwear and body wear etc. Coolmax R blend with cotton , it has moisture – absorbing , drain sweat and two tones effect in one side functions , suitable for socks.
Clothing made from Coolmax is primarily intended to be worn during exertion – sweat can evaporate quickly so the wearer is kept dry.Other useful properties include fast drying and resistance to fading , shrinking and wrinkling . Additionally, coolmax is used as a mattress cover.
In 2000-01 , Nahar Exports Ltd ,Ludhiana was the only authorized coolmax spinner in India from Dupont of U .S A. Later on Oswal Woollen Mills Ltd ,Ludhiana has started manufacturing Coolmax Yarn.
Types of Coolmax Fibre –
Coolmax fabric is the industry leader when it comes to moisture management , and many customers rely on coolmax fabric for their activewear needs. Based on consumers requirement for different levels of comfort for specific activities ,the coolmax fabric is divided into three types.
- coolmax everyday fabric .- for consumers looking for casual , comfortable garments where the breathability of coolmax keeps them cool and confident .
- coolmax active – for consumers who demand enhanced performance from their apparel for the active life style. The thermo –regularity effect of coolmax helps consumers stay drier and more comfortable .
- coolmax extreme fabric .- for extreme athletes who require the excellent moisture management properties of coolmax that are proven to reduce skin temperature , lower heart rates during exercise and maintain
Spinning of Coolmax yarn – It can be spun into 100 % or blends . In 100 % coolmax yarn normally the count used in market is Ne 20/1 , Ne 30 /1 and Ne 40/1 .
It is used in sportswear ,underwear ,dress shirts . Such type of yarn is made in spinning mills in Korea. It is blended with cotton in 60/40 or 50/50 ratio .
Fine Cotton Factory was founded in 1997 by Mr Harish Patel and Mr Biren Patel in Canada. They are the first company in Canada to mix micro fibre with cotton. The first product “ stay kool “ was blended with coolmax fibre from Dupont and was directed toward uniforms for fast food and retail chains throughout Canada
Jiangsu huaqiang textile co ltd, china is manufacturing coolmax perspiration fiber yarn There are different types of Coolmax fibres to be used in spinning.
T-D986W polyester is designed to improve fabric pilling in 100 % Coolmax Alta performance fabrics. It has a critical polymer recipe to achieve consumer value of pill performance at acceptable mill processing conditions for soft tactility and moisture transport. The other regular T-729 W type is used for regular coolmax performance fabrics. Another type T-702 W fibre is also used for Coolmax fabrics. Adjustment in spinning is required to achieve acceptable processing and quality in yarn and fabric.
Dyeing and finishing of Coolmax fabric – Coolmax fabrics known as Dupont performance fibres are designed to be processed much like regular polyester . Same dyes and chemicals are used. Modification of procedures and chemicals is required to optimize results.
The most popular fabric which is processed is Coolmax/lycra blended warp knit tricot fabrics. It is first heat set prior to scouring and dyeing to stabilize the fabric. Temperature is 180 –190 deg c. for 30 sec. Overfeed 10-15 %.
Circular knit Coolmax /Lycra fabric are first dyed in tubular form in soft flow dyeing machine, may be slit , dried , and heat set at 180-190 deg c to achieve final stretch and recovery properties . For whites and pastel shades, it is preferable to slit and heat set prior to dyeing and then frame dry.
Finishing of coolmax fabrics is same as other polyester fabrics.
Coolmax fabrics are slowly gaining importance in textile industries. Raymonds and RSWM has started making coolmax fabrics.