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A Fashion Yarn in a ‘Made in India’ Fabric

Published: July 19, 2021
Author: Somasree Roy

A FASHION YARN IN A MADE IN INDIA FABRIC

The Fashion World thrives on freshness, experiments, and novel creativity every single day! It is indeed a reflection of the garments and accessories that adorn the consumer. It is the culmination of one’s imagination and aspirations meticulously worked across styles, designs, colors, tones, prints, textures, drapes, and a whole lot of elements that evolve almost every day.

But, Fashion, at a very fundamental level, is truly a reflection of the ingredient that curates it – the multitude and wide range of yarns and fabrics that stay at the heart of curating Timeless Fashion. As the fabric used in Fashion is what determines the fall, feel, texture, dye-pick, comfort, glamour, and style quotient of any attire, at the core, of this fabric lies the yarn that weaves it. Needless to say, and a well-known fact is that it is this yarn, the manifestation of which, articulates the characteristics in fabrics.

Viscose Filament Yarn – The Fashion Yarn

The world of fibres and yarns is as old as the history of mankind. While it started with natural fibres – cotton, silk, wool, jute, rami, hemp etc. the evolution of science and technology has enabled the creation of manmade fibres and filaments – either from natural origin (e.g., Cellulosic Fibres and Yarns) or from Synthetic origin (E.g., Polyester, Nylon etc.).  The journey of clothing has also simultaneously moved from necessity clothing and home textiles to fashion clothing to technical textiles to functional textiles.

Among the multitude of fibres and yarns that drive the fashion world, one is well known for its versatility, soft and luxurious feel, and richness it adds to fabrics for being the most desired in festive and ornate wears. This is Viscose Filament Yarn. A yarn synonymous with Fashion. A perfect Fashion Yarn!

As with its versatility, this yarn also adorns multiple names – it is popularly referred to as Rayon. Some call it Art-Silk too. Fabrics made from this yarn also have varied names comparing it to silk. These fabrics are considered as the most premium, after silk, and shadows silk in USP (unique selling proposition) and Use.

Viscose filament yarn (VFY) is derived from wood pulp and is generally known as “regenerated cellulosic yarn”. This differentiates it from most other man-made fibers like polyester or nylon that are synthetic in their origin. VFY is one of the most versatile ingredients, known to have the best of both worlds – the comfort of cotton and the feel and lustre of silk. The viscose filament yarn offers a plethora of dazzling properties, making it a desirable ingredient to work with. The process of manufacturing VFY consists of various steps: steeping and pressing; shredding; aging; xanthation; dissolving; ripening and filtration of the viscose solution; wet spinning; drawing; raw yarn after-treatment; and winding. There are 3 key technologies for manufacturing VFY globally – the classic Pot Spun Technology, the advanced Continuous Spun Technology, and a unique Spool Spun Technology.

VFY’s History – Global Adoption of a Versatile Yarn

While the curiosity and attempt of mankind to emulate a yarn similar to silk dates back almost 350 years, the commercial and viable production of VFY documented dates back to early 1900 – almost 100 years back. While the production started in the U.S., globally today ~98% of production happens in China and India.

VFY has been adopted by the Textile industry as the premium value-based yarn contrary to the volume-based saga of most manmade fibers and yarns. Today, the consumption centers for yarns are spread globally with China, India and Pakistan contributing to ~85%. The appeal and consumption of fabrics however, is desired world-wide. The gamut of applications extended from apparel to embroidery to home textiles globally. There is usage in premium suit lining, knitted apparel, intimate wear and many more – the appeal and preference being much more in luxury wears. Interestingly, VFY, in particular, has always been known for women’s wear.

As VFY is immensely versatile, it lends itself beautifully to the everchanging need of fashion, particularly in women’s wear. One can find references to celebrity dressing with Rayon. Red carpet stories had the aroma of art-silks. A picture of feminine elegance is draped in VFY. Yet again, justifying its position as the Fashion Yarn.

VFY in India – A Saga of a Luxurious textile ingredient in the Land of Creativity

India, since ages has been the land of textiles, of creativity and of handcrafted fashion. From ancient civilization to Mughal era, Indian textiles and art have reached corners of the globe and even today, finds umpteen mentions in the history of textiles and fashion. Even today, Indian fashion designers have significant universal appeal and popularity. One hears of Indian weaves, hand embroidery work, pashminas, carpets and many more. This land of cotton, jute, wool and silk and its craftmanship does justice to all the manmade fibres and filaments.

Needless to say, this country of the talented textile fraternity adopted VFY with elan and enthusiasm years back to weave tales of luxury, to create fashion for royalty and contemporary, to give this Fashion Yarn its rightful due.

India started the journey with VFY over half a century ago. In the past 60 years, India has emerged as a leading producer of viscose filament yarns and a key consumption center. Its demand and acceptance in the textile fraternity has grown multiple folds in the last few decades owing to its 100% natural origin and ability to blend flawlessly with other naturally occurring fibers and yarns like cotton, wool and other man-made fibers.

There had been multiple companies who fueled growth of VFY in India, from time to time. Today, India’s largest VFY manufacturer is Grasim Industries Limited who is also the 3rd largest VFY manufacturer globally.

Grasim Industries Limited – A ‘Made in India’ VFY Journey 

Grasim Industries limited (VFY – Fashion Yarn Business) has been on the forefront of India’s VFY story.  The company’s inception dates back to 1950’s and since then has transformed into the largest viscose filament yarn manufacturer in India and a VFY leader of global repute. The company has a strong reach to the global market and now stands as the largest VFY exporter from India with exports to over 45 countries.

The company has a rich heritage of over 60 years and is a part of the Aditya Birla Group, a global conglomerate in the league of Fortune 500. There are two (2) manufacturing units at its twin locations i.e., Shahad, Maharashtra and Veraval, Gujarat. This company has all three (3) VFY manufacturing technologies, namely Pot Spun Yarn (PSY), Continuous Spun Yarn (CSY), Spool Spun Yarn (SSY). It maintains highest level of operational excellence and is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001 (Environment), ISO 45001, REACH compliance, OEKO-TEX certification, and FSC® certified products (C149993 & C151684) for both units.

Raysil®, the fashion yarn brand of Grasim Industries Limited, draws its inspiration from VFY’s unique characteristics and accentuates this through high quality pulp, years of expertise in VFY manufacturing and advanced, high performance technologies.

Raysil®, the fashion yarn, is a 100 percent natural yarn of cellulosic origin, produced from superior quality wood pulp, that imparts skin-friendly and comfortable characteristics. A secret behind every rich fabric that has a superior lustre, drape and fluidity, Raysil® adds a royal touch to a fabric. Additionally, the lustre, brilliant color depth, excellent softness & smoothness, high thermal protection, no pilling and anti-shredding properties, ensures all properties a perfect VFY should have.

This versatile fashion yarn is available across 20 deniers to 1200 deniers of bright and dope dyed VFY (600 shades with flexibility to reproduce any shade as per customer requirement). The product portfolio also includes air-texturized yarns, double and twisted yarns, dull yarns, flat yarns, special yarns, yarns with two tone effect and many more. Raysil creates the best of Georgettes, Crepes, Chiffons, Chinnons, Upada, Organza, Tabby, Tussar, Satin, Shantun, Velvet and many more unique blends for apparel, embroidery & home textiles applications.

Woods to Wardrobe – The Raysil Journey

VFY starts its journey from sustainable forests, weaves its way to express the dreams and imagination of designers and craftsmen, wins the hearts of the wearer and gently returns to into the folds of nature as a biodegradable product. The best quality wood pulp is responsibly sourced from sustainable and traceable forests to make 100% natural viscose filament yarns. The yarns are carefully woven to create a wide range of fabrics that are extremely skin-friendly and comfortable. These fabrics are used to curate garments and home textiles.

Raysil – The Fashion Yarn in a ‘Made in India’ Fabric

With years of manufacturing and R&D, Grasim Industries Limited (VFY – Fashion Yarn Business) stands as the backbone for India’s VFY Industry catering to the ever-evolving fashion needs not only within the country, but also globally. From Indian ethnic wear to saris and dupattas, to creation of Indo-western wear, fusion wear, and western wear to fashion accessories, the company addresses the VFY needs of the Indian Weaving and Fashion Fraternity. When any Indian artist of a textile canvas looks to curating a timeless collection through embroidery or weave a dream with bedlinen, upholstery, tapestry or carpets, the company ensures that their aspirations become a reality through the palette of yarns – types, colors and blends that is in the offering.

The company stays invested in ensuring the best of VFY fabrics, the ultimate embroidery and the most opulent home décor is Made in India, by Indian weavers with India’s very own fashion yarn.  Shall we say, when it is a ‘Made in India’ VFY textiles, it is Raysil®!

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