Filo66 Opening Ceremony Highlights Balance and Competitiveness in Italian Textile Supply Chain
Industry representatives discuss sustainability, innovation, skills, costs and collaboration at Fiera Milano Rho
The opening ceremony of the 66th edition of Filo, held at Fiera Milano Rho – Hall 24, focused on the theme “Weaving the Future: balance for a stronger, more competitive textile and fashion supply chain.” The discussion examined how greater collaboration, innovation and responsibility across the textile and fashion supply chain could support its future competitiveness.
Opening the ceremony, Paolo Monfermoso, Head of Filo, said: “The sector is going through a challenging situation, with circumstances varying from company to company. As far as Filo is concerned, both the number of exhibitors at this 66th edition – which is in line with February’s one – and the number of buyers already registered this morning give us reason to hope for good results”.
Pier Francesco Corcione, General Director of Biella Industrial Union (UIB), highlighted the role of trade fairs in supporting business development and networking. He stated: “The 66th edition of Filo confirms the value of B2B trade fairs as concrete tools for business development: in a market wherever-greater capacity for innovation and collaboration is increasing, it is essential to create meaningful opportunities for networking. Filo puts the textile supply chain at the core, fostering dialogue among all its key players and promoting expertise, sustainability and research. It is from the strength of the supply chain that the sector’s competitiveness stems, and this is the asset that our event continues to promote and strengthen: businesses”.
Emanuele Ramella Pralungo, President of the Province of Biella, welcomed participants and discussed the importance of preserving the “Made in Italy” brand while addressing challenges through cooperation. He said: “I am particularly pleased to be here at Filo, a trade fair that showcases the excellence of yarns and ‘Made in Italy’ products. As a politician and public administrator, I am convinced that ‘Made in Italy’ brand must be actively preserved by tackling the challenges facing the sector and seeking solutions that are as widely supported as possible. I am convinced that bringing the various sectors together around a table is always the best and quickest way to reach a consensus on complex issues. Speeding up decision-making also means recognising that sometimes it is better to entrust decisions to the body closest to the local area, such as the provinces, rather than centralising them.”
Fulvia Bacchi, CEO of Lineapelle, reiterated the importance of cooperation between the two trade fairs, noting “the synergy we have built with Filo, whilst respecting the identity and unique characteristics of each trade fair. Our exhibitions are important and must be promoted”.
Matteo Masini, Head of the Consumer Goods Office at ITA – the Agency for the Promotion and Internationalisation of Italian Enterprises Abroad – underlined the agency’s support for the internationalisation of Italian businesses and its long-standing collaboration with Filo. He said: “Filo has made remarkable progress in recent years; I can attest to this first-hand, having followed its development. This year, ITA celebrates its centenary, a significant milestone. Then as now, our role is to support businesses in their internationalisation process. As far as trade fairs are concerned, our work does not only consist of organising buyers’ delegations but extends throughout the year: our offices in various countries act as a gateway to markets that are often complex.”
Round-Table Examines Supply Chain Balance
The second part of the Filo66 opening ceremony featured a round-table discussion moderated by Laura Ricardi, Head of the UIB press office. Introducing the discussion, Ricardi cited figures highlighting the role of the Italian textile and clothing industry, which accounts for around 30% of European production. Italy is also described as the European Union’s leading producer, Europe’s second-largest exporter and the fifth largest globally.
The sector recorded €58.39 billion in turnover in 2025, with around 37,500 companies and more than 372,000 employees.
The discussion focused on the question of how to achieve balance across different parts of the supply chain while maintaining cohesion, competitiveness and strength.
Michele Pozzi, Sales Director of Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale, said: “Sustainability is not an individual goal, but a collective journey. In the world of linen, the future belongs to supply chains that are united, transparent, innovative and responsible. Since when a supply chain is cohesive, it produces more than just fibres, yarns, fabrics or finished products. It produces trust. And trust is the most precious raw material for building the textiles of the future”.
Cesare Cigolini, Managing Director of Achille Pinto, focused on the role of small artisan businesses in the Italian textile system. He stated: “Balance in the supply chain is achieved by supporting small artisan businesses – those that represent the ‘core’ of Made in Italy. It means integrating small businesses, with their innovation and creativity, into the supply chain, to ensure they have the organisational and financial capacity to meet brands’ requirements in terms of sustainability and traceability. In short, it means growing together – large and small businesses alike.”
Stefano Aglietta, Chair of the Spinning Section of UIB, addressed challenges affecting upstream segments of the supply chain. He said: “In spinning, the stability of a strong supply chain depends on the ability to safeguard even the most fragile links in the production chain. If the upstream links see a decline in skills, specialisations and that entrepreneurial diversity which makes our system unique, the whole production chain is weakened. This requires a willingness to rebalance the relationship between price and added value along the supply chain, acknowledging that a business generates not only profit, but also jobs, social cohesion and well-being for the local area. Looking to the future, I envisage a supply chain geared towards balanced development: not infinite growth, but a model capable of balancing value creation, the responsible use of resources and the redistribution of wealth across the local area.”
Marco Bortolini, Vice President UIB for the Development of Industrial Supply Chains, highlighted the impact of rising costs on manufacturing companies and processors. He said: “Our textile supply chain preserves inside expertise – which has been taken for granted and undervalued for years – that is now considered as strategic for system’s survival. Both environmental and social sustainability, creativity and ‘industrial craftsmanship’ are unique to our businesses. Unfortunately, the rise in the costs of raw materials, energy and labour is heavily weighing on manufacturing firms and processors, precisely in the segment of the supply chain where added value is most compressed and where the foundations of the product are laid. If these costs continue to erode margins and investment capacity, without concrete long-term intervention from policymakers, the balance will remain skewed. Personally, we are working to ensure that new criteria – which prioritise sustainability, skills and innovation throughout the supply chain, including in pricing – can clearly bring the value of manufacturing to the fore across the entire supply chain. Looking ahead, I imagine that consumers too must play their part in this balance, recognising the true value of the product they purchase, not least for its contribution to social cohesion. We must always remember that industrial system, 99% of which consists of SMEs, is the backbone of our society.”
Patrizia Salemi, HR Manager at Vimar 1991, highlighted the importance of people and skills to the sector. She stated: “Competitiveness of textile supply chain depends on people. The labour market has changed and manufacturing must evolve too: we must succeed in preserving and passing on extraordinary expertise, whilst at the same time creating organisations capable of meeting the expectations of younger generations. Technology and AI will change the way we work, but it will still be people who make the difference.”
Sergio Tamborini, former President of Confindustria Moda, emphasised collaboration across the supply chain. He said: “The strength of the Italian textile sector derives from the supply chain and its ability to bring together expertise, quality, innovation and the local area. Today, we must strike a new balance between upstream and downstream sectors, sustainability and competitiveness, and innovation and manufacturing know-how. The transition to a circular economy is an unmissable industrial opportunity. No company can tackle this transformation on its own: the future is built by strengthening the supply chain and our ability to evolve together.”
Filo66 Runs Through September 16
The 66th edition of Filo is being held on 15 and 16 September 2026 at Fiera Milano Rho, Hall 24.