Dr. Mrinal Choudhari: Championing Sustainable Innovation in Textiles
Dr. Mrinal Choudhari
Additional Director
Wool Research Association (WRA), Thane
Dr. Mrinal Choudhari is the Additional Director at Wool Research Association (WRA), Thane, bringing over 21 years of expertise in textile chemistry and sustainable textile solutions. With a PhD from ICT (UDCT) Mumbai, she specialises in research project execution, government liaison, and advancing eco-friendly practices in textile processing, including pollution reduction and resource conservation. Dr. Choudhari actively represents WRA in BIS standards committees, shaping national policies for technical textiles. Her work is pivotal in driving innovation and environmental responsibility within the industry. The TVC Media Team had the privilege to talk to her about her impactful journey and vision. How have you seen women's roles in research and technical positions in India's textile sector change over your career? Over the past 21 years, women’s roles in India’s textile sector have seen a significant transformation, particularly in research and technical domains. Traditionally confined to roles in manufacturing and handloom activities, women are now increasingly taking up positions in textile research, product development, and process innovation. This shift has been largely facilitated by greater access to specialized education from prestigious institutions such as the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai; National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT); Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Delhi’s Department of Textile and Fibre Engineering; and the Central Silk Technological Research Institute (CSTRI). These institutions have witnessed a steady rise in female enrollment in postgraduate and doctoral programs focused on textile chemistry, fibre science, and technical textiles. Women researchers from these institutions have contributed to the development of sustainable dyes, smart textiles, and functional finishes, playing a vital role in advancing India’s position in the global textile industry. Furthermore, government initiatives like Samarth and Skill India have empowered women by providing technical training and leadership opportunities in specialised sectors such as medical textiles, Agro-textiles, and protective clothing. Women-led startups emerging from incubators associated with institutions like IIT Delhi and NIFT have pioneered innovations in biodegradable textiles and wearable technology, setting new benchmarks in sustainable fashion and functional fabrics. Despite existing challenges in achieving gender parity at senior leadership levels, the growing presence of women in technical roles, research labs, and entrepreneurial ventures indicates a positive trend. With continued policy support and institutional encouragement, women’s contributions to the Indian textile sector are poised to grow even further in the coming years.
What structural changes have you witnessed or advocated for to boost women’s leadership in textiles? As an Additional Director at the Wool Research Association (WRA) and Chairman of the BIS TXD 37 committee, I have observed and actively advocated for several structural changes aimed at addressing the gender imbalance in leadership roles within the textile industry. At WRA, initiatives have been introduced to encourage women researchers and technologists to lead projects in advanced areas, providing them with the necessary resources and mentorship for career advancement. We have also promoted flexible work environments and skill enhancement workshops tailored for women. By creating clear pathways for career growth and recognising the contributions of women through awards and visibility in technical forums, these structural interventions have begun to bridge the leadership gap, fostering a more balanced and progressive textile industry. Wool Research Association has been involved in a skill development program of nearly 250 Women approved by the State Government at Chandrapur district, empowering them to upgrade their livelihood. Are there notable sustainability initiatives in textiles led by women researchers or entrepreneurs? Yes, several women-led initiatives have significantly advanced sustainability in India’s textile sector. Bhaavya Goenka’s Iro Iro focuses on upcycling industrial textile waste into contemporary garments, promoting circular fashion. Eco Femme, founded by women in Tamil Nadu, produces organic, washable sanitary pads, reducing single-use waste. Taruna Gandotra-Sethi’s Karuna Quilt Movement upcycles surplus fabric into quilts, supporting underprivileged women. Sumita Ghose’s Rangsutra empowers thousands of rural women artisans through sustainable textile production. Additionally, the 5Rcycle Foundation, led by Dr. Smita Birkar, actively promotes zero-waste management and circular economy principles, encouraging fabric reuse and recycling to reduce textile pollution.
How does WRA’s Centre of Excellence for Sportech create new opportunities for women in technical textiles? With the Wool Research Association (WRA) now designated as a Centre of Excellence for Sportech, it opens significant avenues for women professionals in technical textiles, particularly in the rapidly growing women’s sportswear segment. This designation fosters advanced research and product development in performance-enhancing sports textiles, smart wearables, and sustainable activewear—all areas where women professionals can play pivotal roles. Given the rising demand for women-centric sportswear that addresses comfort, fit, and functionality, there is an increasing need for female researchers, designers, and technologists to lead innovations tailored to these specific requirements. Moreover, this Centre of Excellence can serve as a platform to promote entrepreneurship among women by supporting start-ups focused on smart sports textiles, bio-functional garments, and high-performance apparel for women athletes. Collaborations with various institutions in and outside Mumbai for imparting online and offline training in Sportech Specialised area’s such as Knitting technology, have helped many students. One can further encourage female scholars to participate in specialised R&D projects, patent new technologies, and take leadership roles in commercialisation efforts. As the women’s sports market expands globally, this initiative will not only drive technical innovation but also contribute to greater representation of women at all levels of the textile value chain—from lab-scale research to industry leadership. How does women’s participation in textile policy-making and standards in India compare globally? In my experience representing India in various standards committees, women’s participation in policy-making and standards development within India’s textile sector has certainly improved over the years, but still lags behind global benchmarks. In countries like the USA, Germany, and the UK, there is a more balanced representation of women in standards organisations such as ASTM International, ISO committees, and the British Standards Institution (BSI). These organisations actively promote gender diversity through leadership programs and inclusive policies, resulting in higher female participation in technical working groups and policy formulation. In contrast, India’s standards bodies, including the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS), are gradually recognising the need for greater female representation, but structural challenges remain. While more women are now involved in academic and industrial R&D, their participation in decision-making roles within standards development is still limited. However, initiatives are being taken to encourage women professionals from premier institutions to contribute to standards committees, particularly in emerging fields such as technical textiles and sustainability. With continued focus on diversity and mentorship programs, India is on the path to narrowing this gap, aligning more closely with global practices over time. What unique perspectives do women bring to tackling environmental challenges in textiles? Women bring a highly holistic and solution-oriented perspective to addressing ecological challenges in the textile industry, often integrating environmental sustainability with social and community well-being. Their approach tends to emphasise not just technological innovation but also the socio-economic impacts of environmental degradation, leading to more inclusive and sustainable solutions. For example, women researchers and entrepreneurs have pioneered the development of biodegradable materials, plant-based dyes, and closed-loop recycling systems that not only reduce pollution but also create livelihood opportunities for marginalised communities. Additionally, women’s leadership in promoting ethical supply chains and sustainable fashion has been instrumental in shifting consumer awareness toward eco-friendly products. Initiatives like upcycling textile waste into value-added products, promoting zero-waste design concepts, and introducing non-toxic chemical alternatives in processing are often driven by women-led enterprises. Their ability to combine technical expertise with empathy for environmental and social outcomes makes their contributions uniquely impactful in driving sustainable change within the textile sector. What barriers still limit women’s advancement in scientific and technical textile roles? While barriers still exist, the current era marks a significant positive shift for women advancing in scientific and technical roles within India’s textile ecosystem. Increased access to specialised education, industry-focused research programs, and supportive government policies under initiatives like Samarth and NTTM have created new pathways for women to excel in technical domains. Industry attitudes are also evolving, with organisations recognising the value of diversity and actively promoting women into leadership roles in R&D, innovation centres, and policy advisory positions. Platforms for entrepreneurship and start-up incubation now specifically encourage women-led ventures. While challenges such as work-life balance and underrepresentation at the highest leadership levels remain, the landscape is becoming increasingly favourable, and the success stories of women innovators and entrepreneurs are inspiring a new generation to break through traditional barriers and lead the future of India’s textile industry. Although the landscape is becoming increasingly favourable, problems such as the Glass ceiling effect, wage gap, problems in working in Shifts and safety still persist. How have women entrepreneurs and artisans in wool-producing regions adapted to market and sustainability changes? The woollen sector in India, characterised by its seasonal nature and strong geographical roots in regions such as Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Jammu & Kashmir, and Rajasthan, has witnessed significant transformation in recent years. Women entrepreneurs and artisans from these traditional wool-producing regions have actively responded to changing market demands and increasing global focus on sustainability by embracing innovative approaches, product diversification, and sustainable production practices. Traditionally, women in these regions were engaged in producing basic woollen garments, shawls, and carpets for local markets. However, with evolving consumer preferences and rising demand for sustainable and high-value products, they have diversified into eco-friendly product categories. In Ladakh, for example, women artisans working with fine Pashmina wool have upgraded their skills to produce globally appealing luxury products such as organic Pashmina scarves, stoles, and garments certified under sustainability labels. Similarly, in Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand, women have ventured into the production of naturally dyed shawls, home décor items, and hand-knitted premium winter wear using organic and chemical-free processes. Women entrepreneurs have also embraced sustainability by adopting eco-friendly raw materials and production techniques. In India, where Deccani wool is abundant but traditionally underutilised, WRA initiatives through my-self have turned to developing agro-textile products such as biodegradable mulching mats, soil enrichment pellets, and natural insulation materials. These innovations not only reduce reliance on synthetic materials but also address pressing environmental concerns related to plastic pollution and soil degradation. Women's cooperatives have further adopted water-efficient dyeing processes and the use of natural plant-based dyes, reducing the environmental footprint of textile production. The rapid growth of e-commerce and digital marketplaces has further empowered women entrepreneurs from remote regions to reach wider markets. Platforms like Amazon Karigar, Okhai, and Gocoop have enabled them to sell their sustainable wool products directly to conscious consumers worldwide. Many women have also started their own online ventures and social media-driven sales channels, thereby bypassing traditional middlemen and earning better profits. These adaptive strategies have resulted in significant social and economic benefits. Women are now earning sustainable incomes, contributing to household finances, and becoming financially independent. In several cases, women have assumed leadership roles in artisan cooperatives and producer companies, promoting collective growth and empowering other women in their communities.
What innovative water conservation solutions have women developed for textile processing? Women researchers and industry leaders have been at the forefront of developing several innovative and impactful solutions to address water scarcity challenges in textile processing. Recognising that conventional dyeing and finishing processes are highly water-intensive, they have pioneered alternative technologies and sustainable process optimisations. One such innovation is the development and promotion of waterless dyeing technologies using supercritical CO₂, significantly reducing water consumption while achieving high-quality dye penetration. Women-led research teams at institutions like the Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT), Mumbai, and NIFT have also worked on bio-based enzymatic processing, replacing harsh chemical treatments with enzyme-based solutions that drastically reduce water usage in scouring, bleaching, and finishing stages. Additionally, women entrepreneurs have championed closed-loop water recycling systems and zero liquid discharge (ZLD) technologies within textile processing units. These systems enable wastewater to be treated and reused, minimising freshwater consumption and environmental discharge. Some have also promoted the use of low-liquor ratio dyeing machines and digital printing technologies, which consume far less water compared to traditional methods. Moreover, women-led start-ups and organisations have introduced the use of natural, low-impact dyes extracted from agricultural waste and plant materials, which not only conserve water but also reduce harmful effluents. These sustainable innovations have contributed to making textile processing more water-efficient, environmentally friendly, and economically viable, setting new benchmarks for the industry. What policy changes would you recommend to increase women’s participation and leadership across the textile value chain? To enhance women’s participation and leadership across the textile value chain, it is imperative to implement targeted policies that foster skill development, provide financial support, and ensure greater representation in decision-making bodies. Specialised leadership and technical training programs for women, in collaboration with Research institutions like TRA’s, ICT Mumbai, and IITs, can equip them with advanced skills needed for emerging areas such as sustainable textiles and smart wearables. Financial incentives and dedicated funding schemes should be expanded to support women-led enterprises and startups, particularly in high-growth sectors like technical textiles. Policies mandating women’s representation in industry associations and standardisation committees will ensure their voices influence policy and innovation. Additionally, the creation of women-centric industrial zones under schemes like PM-MITRA, combined with workplace inclusivity initiatives such as flexible working hours and childcare support, can remove structural barriers to career growth. Recognising and celebrating women innovators at national platforms will further inspire the next generation of female leaders, driving inclusive and sustainable growth within the textile industry.