By Ram Ramprasad
The textile industry in India is a major consumer of land, water, and energy, contributing significantly to greenhouse gas emissions. However, clean tech startups worldwide are pioneering disruptive technologies that offer promising solutions for India. These innovations, particularly in microbial and enzyme-based processes, are transforming sustainable textile production, manufacturing, and recycling. This essay highlights key challenges and solutions in each of these areas.
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Cotton Production: The Problem
India dedicates approximately 12.8 million hectares (31.6 million acres) to cotton cultivation, making it the largest cotton-growing country by area, as reported by the Ministry of Textiles. Cotton is primarily grown in states such as Maharashtra, Gujarat, Telangana, and Madhya Pradesh, and is a vital crop for India’s textile industry.
However, cotton is a highly water-intensive crop. Reports from Cotton Today and Sustainable Fashion indicate that producing 1 kilogram of cotton can require up to 20,000 litres of water, although efficient practices can reduce this. Cotton cultivation occupies about 6% of India’s cultivated land but consumes a disproportionately high amount of irrigation water, further straining already water-stressed regions. Additionally, monoculture cotton farming is degrading soil quality, raising long-term sustainability concerns.
Cotton Production: Clean Tech Solutions
GALY, a U.S.-based startup, addresses these challenges by using microbes to grow cotton cells in a lab, compared to traditional cotton farming. It is produced up to ten times faster, uses 80% less water, and requires 97% less land than field-grown cotton. Additionally, it eliminates the need for pesticides and insecticides, as production occurs in a controlled lab environment. These efficiencies make lab-grown cotton a more eco-friendly alternative that can be produced year-round without the challenges posed by weather conditions. By adopting such technologies, cotton farmers can significantly increase their revenue by using the freed-up land to grow fruit-bearing trees or a variety of other trees of commercial value.
More on the topic: https://www.freethink.com/science/lab-grown-cotton
Another startup, Rubi Laboratories, is also making waves in this field. Based in San Francisco, Rubi Labs focuses on converting CO2 emissions into cellulose pulp using enzymes. While their primary work centres on carbon capture and textile production, their enzyme-based technology holds promise for other applications, such as textile recycling.
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Textile Manufacturing: The Problem
India’s textile manufacturing is water-intensive, especially in the dyeing process. The Water Footprint of Indian Cotton Textiles report by the Centre for Science and Environment (CSE) highlights that it takes between 8,000 to 10,000 litres of water to produce a single cotton shirt. For a sari, the water usage can range from 12,000 to 15,000 litres, depending on the dyeing process and fabric.
Textile Manufacturing: Clean Tech Solutions
DyeCoo Textiles, headquartered in the Netherlands, has developed a revolutionary waterless dyeing technology using liquid CO2, which eliminates the need for water and harmful chemicals. This process saves 30 to 40 litres of water per kilogram of fabric compared to traditional methods. By removing water entirely, DyeCoo’s approach also reduces energy consumption and emissions, offering a more sustainable solution for textile dyeing.
In my article Sustainable Sari published in TerraGreen in November 2022, I discussed how sari manufacturers can adopt DyeCoo’s technology. Additionally, these manufacturers can use plain cotton cloth for 25-30% of the sari, particularly for parts that remain hidden when draped. This innovation conserves water and resources while maintaining the sari’s aesthetic appeal.
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Textile Waste: The Problem
India faces a growing challenge with textile waste, with approximately 1 million tons of used clothing ending up in landfills annually, according to the Chintan Environmental Research and Action Group. Much of this waste is a mix of domestic consumption and imported second-hand clothing.
The Ministry of Textiles reports that India imports 100,000 to 300,000 tons of used clothing each year. While some of this is repurposed into blankets for UN disaster relief efforts or mattress filling, the rest often ends up in landfills, adding to the country’s waste management problem.
Textile Waste: Clean Tech Solutions
Several startups are developing technologies to convert used clothes into usable pulp, with microbes playing a crucial role in breaking down fabrics. Renewcell, a Sweden-based company, has created a process that recycles cotton-rich textiles like jeans and T-shirts into Circulose, a dissolving pulp used to make new fibres. This innovation supports a circular fashion economy, aligning with global sustainability goals.
Conclusion
The implementation of cleantech solutions in cotton production, textile manufacturing, and recycling has the potential to transform India into a leader in sustainable textile production. By embracing these technologies, India can position itself as a global pioneer in eco-friendly textiles, benefiting both domestic markets and international trade.
