Pioneering Sustainable Luxury with the Non-Conventional Fibres Association
The Non-Conventional Fibres Association (NCFA) is dedicated to advocating for the use of non-traditional fibres in various applications. Established on April 24, 2023, the organisation serves as a platform to promote luxurious and sustainable alternatives to conventional fibres within the textile industry. NCFA collaborates with cultivators, textile enterprises, users, and policymakers to advance the industry’s beneficial needs. Additionally, the Association conducts advocacy campaigns to raise awareness and encourage the widespread adoption of non-conventional fibres.
Their vision is to integrate these fibres into mainstream usage and raise awareness among end-users, while their mission focuses on uniting cultivators, manufacturers, processors, textile mills, and end-users to drive adoption across various applications.
TVC Media Team recently had the opportunity to engage in a discussion with NCFA on these critical topics.
Can you tell us about NCFA and its mission to promote non-conventional fibres in the textile industry?
Natural fibres which are biobased can be categorised as cellulosic and protein fibres excluding mineral fibres. Prominent natural fibres already used for textile applications such as cotton, wool and mulberry silk are extensively consumed by the textile manufacturing industry. The other natural fibres such as flax/linen, banana, hemp, ramie, pineapple, lotus, etc. are promising for adding value to the raw material base for the textile industry. Keeping this in view, the National Textile Fibre Policy (2013) has described these as other natural fibres to be promoted. Further, many of the states have incorporated these as important fibres especially, the recent textile policy of Maharashtra (2023) has described these classes of fibres as non-conventional fibres.
India being potentially rich in cultivation of these fibres in different parts of India, based on agricultural patterns and agro climatic conditions backed by national and state textile policies, it is a golden opportunity to harness these fibres termed as ‘nonconventional fibres ‘to supplement the raw material base to the Indian textile industry. Many of these fibres are byproducts of the main crop such as banana fibres along with fruit, flax/linen fibres along with flaxseed or linseed etc. and hence the input cost is much less in harvesting the fibre as a subsidiary crop. Therefore, harvesting these nonconventional fibres can lead to sustainability and effective utilisation of the byproduct apart from certain superior functional properties such as comfort properties of linen/flax fibres or antimicrobial properties of banana fibres.
In view of the above, the Nonconventional Fibres Association (NCFA) as a not-for-profit organisation has been established and aims to provide a platform for like-minded people with a vision to explore the advantages of these fibres. The main objectives are creating awareness among the stakeholders through seminars/conferences/workshops, developing a database on these fibres and interacting with the policymakers and industry entrepreneurs and other activities for the development and promotion of the nonconventional fibres.
How does NCFA engage with cultivators, textile enterprises, users, and the policy establishment to promote the use of non-conventional fibres?
NCFA members consist of cultivators, post-harvesting persons, textile and apparel manufacturers, consumers of textiles and those involved in the promotion of environmental protection and biodiversity. The resources for NCFA are mainly from membership fees, contributions/donations from members and contributions from industries and organisations. The main objectives as stated earlier are translated into various developmental activities including the collection of data, and engaging in workshops/seminars/conferences. Interested members in different areas of operation are counselled to get the required information in the relevant area of Non-Conventional Fibres. Resource conservation and collection are facilitated through networking among the NCFA members.
What are the key benefits of using non-conventional fibres over conventional fibres in terms of sustainability, affordability, profitability, comfort, durability, fashionability, availability, and desirability?
Non-conventional fibres are obtained either as a by-product or subsidiary crop in agriculture which gives additional income to the farmers. Some of the non-conventional fibres such as hemp/sun hemp improve the soil fertility and consume less water. The fibres such as Lenin and hemp are called comfort fibres due to their texture and morphological features. Since there are several advantages which can be listed fibre-wise and to be researched, a single pointed answer may become an oversimplification of their advantages and sustainability.
How do non-conventional fibres offer a sustainable and environmentally friendly alternative to traditional textile fibres like cotton, jute, wool, and silk?
Non-conventional fibres such as banana, and pineapple are by-products of the horticulture crops and as such are sustainable and environmentally friendly. Cultivation of fibres such as hemp/sun hemp improves soil fertility and requires less consumption of water apart from being harvested as a subsidiary crop. The conservation of water and improvement in soil fertility is one of the key factors for sustainability. The conventional fibres are also sustainable and environment friendly, but non-conventional fibres add value to the theology of sustainability.
What are some examples of plant and animal-based non-conventional fibres, and how can stakeholders in the industry benefit from their use?
Some examples of plant-based non-conventional fibres include banana, pineapple, linen and hemp. These fibres are well suited to blend with conventional fibres to make blended yarns of eco-friendly features with better comfort or protective properties. The stakeholders on a case-to-case basis can reap the benefit of the same. Similarly, animal-based non-conventional fibres, including Vanya silks, rabbit hair, camel hair, etc., have the advantage of good aesthetic and thermal properties and the industry can benefit immensely by developing products with these fibres as niche items.
In what way can the fashion industry and consumers contribute to sustainability by adopting non-conventional fibres and embracing the circular economy?
Non-conventional fibres are harvested either as byproducts from plants or as subsidiary crops. Some of the animal-based non-conventional fibres lead to an edge of advantage of comfort and heritage texture properties. When these fibres are used to make yarns and fabrics including apparel making and ornamentation, can give sustainable fashion and products as per the taste of environmentally conscious consumers. This way sustainability can be approached to non-conventional fibres.
How does NCFA advocate for the mainstream use of non-conventional fibres and promote industry interests among various stakeholders?
The challenge for the use of non-conventional fibres in the mainstream textile and fashion industry is the availability of them in substantial quantity and of quality without loss of characteristics during the harvesting or fibre extraction process. The NCFA therefore aims to organise a common platform with all the stakeholders so that the cultivation, harvesting and harnessing with retention of original characteristics of various non-conventional fibres can be established thereby use of these fibres could be promoted along with the conventional fibres.
What are the long-term goals and vision of NCFA in revolutionising the textile industry through the widespread adoption of non-conventional fibres?
The NCFA plays the catalytic role in the development and promotion of these fibres through various developmental initiatives either on its own or through support system organisations of state or union government under pan India. The long-term goal/vision of NCFA is to develop the database of the currently known non-conventional fibres and research on those which have the potential to be explored as fibres as an ongoing program. Through this mission, NCFA adds a database and provides the same to members of NCFA for harnessing the advantages which are pan India basis or cluster centric such as agro climatic zone wise or resource availability such as forest or comparative advantages of the geographical location for integrated development and promotion of non-conventional fibres.
How do you envision the future of the textile industry with the increasing popularity and acceptance of non-conventional fibres?
It is reported that the global population is expected to reach nearly 9 billion by 2030 and fashion consumption is projected to increase 81% by 2030, according to the Pulse of Fashion Industry 2019 update published by the Global Fashion Agenda. Further, the per capita consumption of textiles is also increasing including the developing and least developed countries due to improvements in GDP. Textile consumption in India has increased significantly over the past 75 years from less than a metre (1947) to 28 metres (2020). Therefore, NCFA has envisioned significant improvement in textile consumption including both conventional and non-conventional fibres.
The conventional natural fibres directly or indirectly put pressure on agricultural land for food production as they are obtained from captive land and agricultural land suitable for food crop cultivation. On the other hand, non-conventional fibres are either byproducts or subsidiary crops and do not put pressure on cultivable land under food production. Some of the non-conventional fibres of animal base use forest resources for culturing or grazing (Vanya silkworm, rabbit) Given the situation of increasing demand for textile fibre base, non-conventional fibres have an important role to play in supplementing the raw material base for the textile industry, especially in the context of use of textile fibres for technical application such as composites, Geotextiles, agro textiles, protective textiles and medical textiles.
Where and how does one get a regular supply of these fibres?
NCFA encourages all the stakeholders to become members including cultivators, fibre exactors, spinners, weavers, processors and apparel manufacturers, and technical textile Producers apart from the traders who either deal with domestic raw materials or imported raw materials. The Availability of non-conventional fibres is reinforced by the database of NCFA. NCFA also acts as a catalyst for networking to have sustained activities under non-conventional fibres including the regular supply of these Fibres. To encourage interested entrepreneurs & others involved in the activity to become members of the NCFA, the services for the promotion and development of the non-conventional fibre sector are preferentially provided to members only. NCFA encourages the members to interact to get the required information and data.
Are there government schemes that offer subsidies/or other benefits for the use of Non-Conventional Fibres?
Every State Govt. has come out with a policy for the promotion of the textile Industry with a focus on resource conservation and supporting the farming community involved in natural fibre production. Special focus on other natural fibres or non-conventional fibres is pointed out in most of the state policy apart from the textile policy of Union Govt. In a nutshell, the Union Govt and Manu State Govt have evolved some sort of incentives for the promotion of these fibres as Substantiable initiatives. We need to take up case by case with each Geographical Location for the development.
