By Ganesh Kasekar
Representative In South Asia
Global Organic Textile Standard – GOTS
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the comprehensive worldwide standard for processing clothing and home textiles using certified organic fibres (like organic cotton and wool). It covers every step, from post-harvesting processes such as spinning, weaving, dyeing, and manufacturing.
This standard, which comprises environmental and social criteria, sets certain essential rules. It prohibits the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), dangerous chemicals (e.g. azo dyes and formaldehyde), and child labour. Furthermore, it enforces strict social compliance management systems and rigorous wastewater treatment practices.
GOTS, a non-profit organisation that sustains itself financially, was established by the Organic Trade Association (US), the Japan Organic Cotton Association, the International Association of Natural Textile Industry (Germany), and the Soil Association (UK). Together, they defined globally accepted requirements that guarantee the organic status of textiles, from the field to the end product.
Growth in Organic Fibres / Textile Market
The latest Organic Cotton Market Report (OCMR) from Textile Exchange reveals a noteworthy milestone. Global organic cotton production surged by an impressive 37%, translating to 522,991 tonnes. Of this figure, 180,726 tonnes can be attributed to Organic In conversion, and the remaining 342,265 tonnes to fully certified Organic cotton across 21 different nations. India, continuing its reign, remains the leading contributor to the worldwide supply of organic cotton.
The Top 10 purchasers of organic cotton textiles, including C&A, H&M, Tchibo, Nike, Inditex, Lindex, Decathlon, Carrefour, Williams Sonoma, and Stanley & Stella, have committed to sustainability.
These brands are part of the 100 per cent Organic Club, ensuring that only organic textiles are used in their products. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) sets the benchmark for processing organic textiles worldwide, emphasising environmentally and socially responsible practices. As of 2022, the number of GOTS-certified facilities has grown to 13,549 across 84 countries. Notably, India, a major supplier of organic cotton, holds the lead in GOTS-certified facilities.
The top 10 countries in terms of certified entities are:
Sustainable Development
The term ‘sustainable’ has gained popularity recently, becoming a focal point at conferences and seminars. Companies have responded by establishing various sustainable positions such as Chief Sustainability Officer, CSR Head, and Circularity Leader.
GOTS, a standard, is built on the Three Pillars of Sustainability: Environmental, Economic, and Social.
Environmental Sustainability entails the ability to sustain renewable resource usage, minimise pollution, and control non-renewable resource depletion indefinitely.
Economic Sustainability refers to the capacity to sustain a consistent level of economic production indefinitely.
Social sustainability signifies a social system’s ability, like a country, to maintain a defined level of well-being indefinitely.
To claim overall sustainability, addressing all three pillars of a product or service is essential. For instance, using renewable energy or conserving water solely addresses environmental sustainability, while combating child labour is exclusively concerned with social sustainability. Likewise, offering rural employment pertains solely to economic sustainability.
Sustainability Self-Claims vs Independent Third-Party Certification
Many brands, big and small, make claims about sustainability. These claims must be credible for the brands themselves and consumers who want to make environmentally friendly choices. Third-party certification assures that the choices made have a real impact. The organic textile standards are the strictest in terms of criteria. GOTS certification covers every step of the textile chain, starting with cotton ginning.
Compliance with environmental and social standards is mandatory at each processing stage. We should set an example for future generations by achieving a healthy work-life balance while also considering the three aspects of sustainability: People, Planet, and Profit. Voluntary standards like GOTS guide sustainable production and consumption, helping producers improve their impact and giving consumers confidence in their purchases.
Organic in Conversion – supporting the farmers and strengthening the supply chain for sustainability.
Cotton farming holds great importance in India, an agricultural country. The current leadership of the Indian government is actively promoting organic farming through various planning and development programs. Farmers are being encouraged to shift from conventional to organic farming practices. To be certified as organic, crops must be grown on land completely free of prohibited substances for at least 36 months before the first organic harvest.
Farmers or farmer groups must document the usage of any prohibited substances, genetically modified organisms (GMOs), or treated seeds, as these are banned during the transition period. Once a farm has completed 12 months of the transition period, successfully managed under organic practices, and supervised by a certification body, its produce may be sold as ‘organic in conversion’. Some textile brands may refer to this stage as ‘pre-organic cotton’. To support this transition and ensure a stable supply of certified organic cotton, textile buyers must actively support organic conversion fibres. In the GOTS supply chain, organic conversion fibres are acceptable when properly labelled.
Organic Textiles Market in India
India leads the world in GOTS-certified facilities, with 3699 as of 2022. Other top-ranking countries include Turkey with 1674, China with 1646, Bangladesh with 1289, and Italy with 1061 certified facilities. While India has primarily focused on exporting organic textiles, there has been a recent surge in demand within the domestic retail market.
Established domestic retailers embrace the GOTS program and plan to introduce certified products by 2022/23. Additionally, numerous start-ups and small-to-medium-sized retailers in India’s domestic retail segment intend to offer GOTS-certified products. As a youthful nation, India holds significant potential in fashionable organic clothing, with Millennials and Gen Z driving the demand for sustainable apparel.
Furthermore, new and expectant parents are increasingly prioritising the chemical safety of products. A GOTS label signifies that a product uses organic fibres and follows environmentally and socially responsible production processes. Retailers and consumers can confidently make verifiable sustainability claims by offering certified organic products. However, some Indian consumers still lack a comprehensive understanding of holistic sustainability. To engage these individuals, “green products” should be communicated through measurable aspects such as organic fibre identification, traceability, absence of hazardous substances, and effective waste treatment. Indian brands and retailers committed to sustainability must invest in educating their customers.
At GOTS, we are developing a social media strategy to assist brands and retailers by providing content on organic and sustainability aspects of the standard. Exciting announcements are on the horizon as we collaborate with prominent retail chains in India.
Benefits to India from GOTS
- Ensures confidence for consumers, brands, manufacturers, and other stakeholders with one international standard.
- Benefits Indian organic cotton farmers by generating a market and customers for their produce.
- GOTS certification leads to a premium for organic textile products.
- Improves working conditions for over 4.2 million labourers in GOTS-certified facilities worldwide.
- Assesses thousands of dyes and auxiliaries in India for environmental criteria, promoting product innovation and control of hazardous substances.
- Gathers important environmental data for untested products, leading to better assessment, testing, and preparation of safety information.
- Treats wastewater from GOTS-certified textile factories before discharging into water bodies, protecting aquatic life from harmful chemicals.
- Safeguards people living downstream by avoiding health hazards from toxic industrial waste, improving their quality of life.
- Provides a free GOTS software tool to monitor water and energy consumption, enhancing productivity for textile processors.
Challenges for Organic Textiles in India
- Organic cotton farmers prioritise food crops over cotton.
- Non-GMO seed shortage hampers organic textile production.
- GMO contamination poses significant obstacles.
- Organic textiles face stiff competition from other cotton alternatives.
- The price premium and price sensitivity of the market create additional stress.
GOTS is linked with the QCI-UNFSS National Platform for Private Sustainability Standards in India, engaging stakeholders. Our focus includes securing recognition for responsible public procurement. In summary, organic textiles remain underexplored in global and Indian markets.
Collaborating with media, NGOs, consumer organisations, retailers, government bodies, and supply chain stakeholders is essential for raising awareness in India.
Meeting UN’s SDGs (United Nations Sustainable Development Goals)
The 17 goals adopted by UN member countries aim to eradicate poverty, safeguard the environment, and promote overall prosperity. Each goal is accompanied by specific targets to be accomplished by 2030. GOTS certification plays a crucial role in guaranteeing adherence to all 17 goals.
Minimum Basic Criteria for GOTS:
- At least 70% of the fibre used must be certified organic.
- Every processing step, including B2B trading, must have certification, volume reconciliation, and traceability.
- The use of inputs such as dyes, inks, pigments, auxiliaries, and enzymes must comply with the GOTS Chemical Approval Process, which includes requirements for biodegradability, toxicity, and testing for hazardous substances.
- Textile products must undergo end-product testing to ensure they do not contain hazardous chemical residues.
- Prohibition of hazardous processes like sandblasting and ammonia treatment.
- Implementation of effluent treatment and adherence to norms for wastewater discharge.
- Strict prohibition of any form of child labour, forced labour, and excessive overtime.
- Ensuring no gender discrimination in any aspect of the production process.
